As part of the celebration of a significant birthday I decided to return to Brussels for the “Belgium Beer Weekend”, an annual beer festival that happens in the Grand-Place Brussels.
I had been to the event over ten years ago, and had visited many of the classic brussels beer venues (Cantillon Brewery, Au Bon Vieux Temps etc). This time I was armed with a long list of venues from Dan and Martha at Saint Mars of the Desert, and Eurostar tickets for my Wife and I.
We arrived early Friday evening and first had a delightful seafood meal at “L’Océan” where you select your own fresh fish from a wide range on display, and they then cook it for you. Next on to the bars!
We had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in, so went round the corner to GIST. This is a modern feeling craft beer style bar, with outdoor seating in a square. Its beer list was almost all new to us, but for a first drink we played it safe with a 5% Pils and 6% Hoppy blond. The outdoor bar experience on a warm evening watching the world go by is something not to miss when you get the chance.
Around the next corner was La Porte Noire, which from the outside didn’t promise much, but is a proper cellar bar, with an arched roof and exposed brickwork, and a more traditional Belgium beer list, draft and bottles. For a couple of old rock fans the hook was the music being played all evening, a mix of old and newer classics (Hendrix, Nirvana, Sabbath etc), such that it felt like a sophisticated return to our old Sheffield Wapentake Friday nights. Beers we had included Manneken Pils 6%, Val Dieu Blonde 6%, Barbar 8%, and Noir de Dottignies 8.5% all on draft. I need to mention the bar snacks, where a “portion de fromage” turns out to be enough bread and cheese to feed a family!. We ended up leaving after midnight, having wisely resisted the excellent whisky selection on offer.
Saturday drinking started with À La Mort Subite, the first Brussels bar I ever visited, and which again allowed us to sit outside in the sun. It offers draft Timmermans Faro, a style not seen in the UK very often, that has always appealed to my sweet tooth (do I need to mention the Chocolate shops in Belgium?). Next we tried A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, but sad to say it may be closed down for now.
So round the corner to À la Bécasse, a classic old Belgium bar, where I very much enjoyed the draft Bourgogne Des Flandres 5%. Unfortunately a group of very noisy tourists turned up to the small bar, so we moved on.
After a stop for some of the belgium classic, Moules Frites, we had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in (can you notice a theme), so went round the corner to La Fleur en Papier Doré, a bar famous for its surrealist patrons. A shorter beer list on offer, but Stouterik was a nice change of pace, a 5% dry stout.
Next we went to Cafe Bebo on the way back to our hotel. It says a lot for the belgium beer scene that even an ordinary bar will offer an interesting beer list, so I tried a beer/brewery I’d not come across before Lutgarde IPA 6.5%, and La Chouffe blonde 8% for my wife. Even when we got back to the hotel bar we were able to have some classic Belgium beers, Leffe Blonde 6.6%, Karmeliet 8.4%, Chimay blue 9%.
Sunday afternoon, and time for the festival in the Grande Place. Over 50 breweries present, 500+ beers. A very modern festival, with no entrance fee, and all beer bought via a specific smart card you charged with money, and beer measures costed in “tokens” (2 euro each) taken by the brewer, including 1/2 tokens. In common with almost every bar you go to, the Belgium beer scene that insists you drink your beer in the correct glass, and this applied at the beer festival!!.
You were “charged” a deposit for the glass for every drink, which was put back on your card when you returned it. Alternatively if you liked the glass you could keep it for the cost of the deposit. We ended up keeping our favourites, from Barbar and Martha (for a gift). Highlights of the beers were Bruges Zot Bok 6.5%, Lupulus Hopera 6%, Vicaris Lino 6.5% (brewed with flax), Vicaris triple 8.5%, Barbar Rouge 8%.
The festival was busy but felt very relaxed, with children allowed in, and take your own food in if you wanted.
For a little peace on a Sunday evening we went to the quirky bar at Royal Puppet Theater Toone, which also has a quiet beer garden. It was perfect for avoiding the crowds, and siping a Bush Ambrée 12%.
On the way back we had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in yet again. Finally we tried a random bar near our hotel, Meia-Bar Saint-Gilles and enjoyed St Hubertus Triple Ambre 7.2%.
For a nightcap in our room a bottle of Vleesmeester Brewery Black Pudding bourbon barrel aged impy stout 12% fit the bill, and for the first time in the weekend not in the correct glass.
I can highly recommend a beery trip to Brussels, for the Belgium Beer weekend festival or not, there’s always somewhere interesting just around the corner. I know I’ll return, if only to finish my list of venues, and finally get into Poechenellekelder.
Paul Rugg