Beer from the Wood

The ancient trade of making traditional casks from wooden staves for beer, wine, cider and spirits took on a new lease of life last year when Master Cooper Alastair Simms returned to God’s Own County to establish the White Rose Cooperage Ltd on the Thorp Arch Estate near Wetherby. Alastair, the last remaining Master Cooper, who, together with three Journeyman Coopers, preserves the ancient craft of making wooden casks bound by metal hoops for the brewing industry. Born in Masham, North Yorkshire, Alastair became an apprentice cooper at Theakston’s Brewery in his home town in May 1979. Following a six month trial period he signed his indentures and went on to undertake his four year apprenticeship under the supervision of Master Cooper Clive Hollis. He successfully completed his training in 1983 with the “trussing in” ceremony and became a Journeyman Cooper. In 1994 he became a Master Cooper following the completion of his training of Peter Coates as a Journeyman Cooper. A year later, after sixteen years at Theakston’s Alastair moved to Wadworth Brewery at Devises where he took over from the retiring Eddy Hodder. Meanwhile, at Theakston’s Clive Hollis passed away and his apprentice Jonathan Manby completed his apprenticeship under the guidance of Alastair in 1999. Eleven years later in 2010 he was admitted as a Liveryman to the Worshipful Company of Coopers which dates back over five hundred years. After eighteen years at Wadworth, Alastair returned to his native Yorkshire to establish White Rose Cooperage at Thorp Arch on his 50th birthday in May 2013 as the country’s only independent commercial cooper. When he began back in the 1970’s, there were still around one hundred coopers in the UK but the advent of metal casks in the 1960’s saw numbers decline resulting in the craft almost fading away but for the handful of skilled craftsmen existing today. However, the amazing growth in numbers of real ale microbreweries in Britain as a whole and Yorkshire in particular has meant that there is hope and the revival of demand for wooden casks is already taking place. Leading the way are Maureen Shaw and Neil Midgley at the Junction pub in Castleford, West Yorkshire where only wooden casks are now used for real ale. After purchasing the run down, empty, failed pubco pub, not only have they transformed it into a wonderful traditional local with many unique features but have backed it up with the gradual introduction of wooden casks. Now “wood only” is their mantra and people are taking notice of this revolution. Neil and Maureen have invested in over 100 casks from Alastair and have around 10 local breweries supplying beers in the wood on a regular basis. The first and most regular supplier is Simon Bolderson and his Ridgeside brewery located in Leeds. Together, the pub and the breweries have proved that great beer can have that extra dimension if stored in wood. They have experimented with spirit casks and have also had great success with “Ageing in Wood”. Not only do wooden casks add a depth of taste to the stronger, darker beers which metal casks cannot provide but successful recent trials with lighter beers also show that they certainly add that something extra to them too. Several progressive brewers in Yorkshire and a few from around the country have also take note of this great revival and have already purchased casks or placed orders from White Rose Cooperage. Alastair has also carried out contracts and orders from more pubs (e.g. Engineers Arms at Henlow), traditional cider makers and produces custom made bespoke furniture. From the beer and cider perspective, perhaps the most interesting creations are the glass head casks which enable the viewing of the activity and changes that occur when traditional real ales are clarified in wooden casks. Alastair is hoping to take on an apprentice and wife Julie also plans to join the business. The long-term aim is to buy a few acres of land to build a cooperage and visitor centre so people can learn about this historic trade and watch coopers at work. Back to the future – long may it continue. Further information for Alastair can be found at: www.whiterosecooperage.co.uk and the Junction at: www.thejunctionpubcastleford.com. David Litten

Reader comment – ‘craft’ keg beer

I was a bit taken aback by Mark Coxon’s article about keg beer. (Beer Matters May 2014). He seems to be advocating drinking keg beers simply because it has been brewed by a craft ‘small’ brewer. Just to be clear. Any pint of keg beer sold is a pint of real ale that isn’t. I thought the Campaign for Real Ale was about promoting real ale and not suggesting folk embrance keg. It seems to be a sell out on everything CAMRA has stood for these past 3 decades. Nick Williams

More on the term ‘craft beer’…

I attended the recent CAMRA Members Weekend and was interested to note that “CAMRA recognises the term “craft beer” as describing beers with distinctive flavour brewed by artisans. Most real ales are craft beers but not all craft beers are real ale.” (CAMRA External policy Document, 2013-2014, para.3.8). The Oxford English Dictionary defines artisan as: “A worker in a skilled trade, especially one that involves making things by hand” with the modifier: “(Of food or drink) made in a traditional or non-mechanized way using high-quality ingredients.” Hence, according to this CAMRA definition, ‘most real ales’ are brewed in a ‘non-mechanised way.’ This is clearly nonsense, (virtually) all brewers use some form of mechanisation as part of the brewing process. CAMRA needs to think again regarding this definition. The American Brewers Association has also recently updated their definition of “craft brewer.” Before the update, their definition was, “A brewer who has either an all malt flagship or has at least 50% of its volume in either all malt beers or in beers which use adjuncts to enhance rather than lighten flavor.” Now: “A brewer that has a majority of its total beverage alcohol volume in beers whose flavor derives from traditional or innovative brewing ingredients and their fermentation.” The new definition allows brewers to use virtually anything (including corn or rice) and still be considered “craft.” Interestingly, the Americans do not define either ‘traditional’ or ‘craft beer’ – perhaps they agree, that as their definition of a ‘craft brewery’ becomes ever more wider, ‘craft beer’ has become a meaningless marketing term? To take one example: our local supermarket sells ‘Hatherwood, Ruby Rooster,’ (3.8% abv) described, on the label, as ‘Craft Ale.’ The label reverse states that it ‘has been traditionally craft-brewed using Burton water, 100% British barley and a blend of Pale, Crystal & Chocolate malts.’ The only other clue to the brewer is the London address of the supermarket – Lidl Uk GmbH. After research, I discovered Ruby Rooster is a product of that well-known ‘craft brewer,’ Marstons plc ……. the price of this ‘Craft Ale’ is 99p for 500 ml, perhaps an indication of the quality of the ingredients? Regarding quality of ingredients, Brewdog have recently opened a new bar on Division Street. The tiling is not yet finished but high abv ‘craft keg’ beers are available at over £4 for 2/3 of a pint. At these prices, the ingredients need to be the highest quality possible. To summarise, ‘craft beer’ remains a meaningless term, perhaps it’s a phrase we should stop using? Dave Pickersgill

Inn Brief

Royal Standard has been redecorated and built a large stage in the main room. Quiz Mon-Wed, open mic Thur, live music or DJ Fri-Sat, DJ Sun. – Nelson Rock Bar appears to have reopened as the Rockin Chair. – The New Inn at Gleadless had a successful beer festival the week after Easter. – Pub owners Mitchells and Butlers are seeking council permission to replace the car park in front of the Robin Hood pub in Millhouses with an outdoor space. They wish to pave the area and install a heated ‘jumbrella.’ Mike Hodson, secretary of Carter Knowle and Millhouses Community Group, said such a plan would result in “a large marquee effectively dominating the view from surrounding roads both of the pub, but also up Millhouses Lane and Springfield Road.” He is urging objectors to make their views known to the council before a decision is taken. – The Castle Inn (Bolsterstone) is currently closed. The owners, Trust Inns, are advertising ‘For Let.’ The New Barrack Tavern has won a top award from SIBA (the Society of Independent Brewers) in a national competition held during the recent BeerX 2014, an event designed to highlight the best of British brewing. Steph and Kevin Woods, managers at the New Barrack Tavern have won a Best SIBA Local award for their outstanding work. “This is a great day for us, for Sheffield and of course, our wonderful customers and suppliers whose loyalty and help has made our ten years here such a joy,” says Steph. “We’re particularly grateful to Dave Hughes at Acorn Brewery whose nomination made our win possible. This business award draws attention to our commitment to operating to the best standards possible, and we’re both very grateful that our hard work has been recognised.” A memorial to the Great Sheffield Flood has been installed on the site of a building destroyed in the disaster. The original Gardener’s Rest pub at Neepsend was one of 700 buildings washed away on March 11, 1864. Artist Simon Wrigglesworth-Baker, has created a sculpture and plaque. He said: “It seems appropriate the sculpture should be placed here on the site of a building destroyed in the 1864 flood, and which is now the garden of the present-day pub – which was also badly damaged in the floods of 2007.” – Co-Manager Robin Baker left Shakespeares on May 16th to start a job at Abbeydale Brewery. The pub will now be solely managed by Chris, with Kaisha and Chris Wadsworth promoted to assistant managers. Robin would like to thank everyone who has made his time at Shakespeares thoroughly enjoyable and he is pleased to see that he’s leaving the pub in very capable hands! Robin also thanks everyone who came down for his leaving do on May 18th! – Pub retailer and brewer Greene King is looking to redevelop a former industrial site between Broadfield Close and Little London Road as part of its Hungry Horse chain. They propose a one and two-storey building with an outdoor seating area, small children’s playground and 79 parking spaces. They aim to create 50 jobs. – Old Number 7, Barnsley: “Once again its with great pleasure that we have won the Barnsley Pub of the Year award, thanks to all who voted. Please check our Facebook, Twitter and website for details of upcoming events including “meet the brewer” evenings and beer tasting sessions.” – The Castle Inn at Bradway now has food up and running. The menu includes sandwiches and snacks, pub grub classics and quality home cooked specials. Food is served lunchtimes and evenings Tuesday to Friday, all day Saturday plus Sunday lunchtime.

Angel at Spinkhill update

The Angel Spinkhill Community Interest Company (CIC) has been undertaking a detailed feasibility study in order to prepare a bid to present to Punch Taverns. The Angel is listed as an Asset of Community Value (ACV) and during the existing moratorium period, only community interest groups can bid for the asset. The CIC is the only community group that has registered an interest and created a company that is eligible to embark upon the task of retaining this asset. The Feasibility Study has included: • Professional Valuation • Acquisition Survey Report • Asbestos Survey • Electrical Survey (including emergency lighting and fire alarm) • Gas and Heating Survey • Refurbishment estimates • Conceptual layouts of each floor of the building The CIC has been in discussion with a number of professionals to explore potential solutions that would facilitate the re-opening of the Angel as a ‘Destination Eatery’ that serves both the local and wider community. The Angel is marketed through Punch Taverns’ agents, Fleurets. Detailed negotiations have resulted in a bid from the CIC been accepted by Punch Taverns (subject to contract). The CIC has until  30th June 2014, to conclude the deal. Also on Thursday 15 May at 7pm, there will be a presentation by the Angel Community Interest Company. The meeting will take place in the school hall at Immaculate Conception Catholic Primary School and is designed to: • briefly outline the work undertaken since the last gathering • present to you an opportunity to invest in the future of the Angel For further information, and to bring offers of financial support, please contact the group at;  savetheangel.spinkhill@gmail.com

Thornbridge Brewery

After sifting through 100s of entries the judging panel for the Best Drink Producer, led by Victoria Moore and Pete Brown, has awarded the accolade for 2014 to Thornbridge Brewery. The BBC award is made to the company that uses “carefully sourced ingredients and skill to produce an outstanding drink”. Pete Brown commenting on the judging at Thornbridge said “Every time I go there, there are new surprises, and they had plenty more this time. Thornbridge are exploring the vast library of beer styles that already exist around the world, mastering them in turn. Having made their name with cask ale and then American style craft beers, they’re now exploring classic German styles such as Kolsch and Weizen” With the number of entries in the category doubling in 2014 Victoria Moore said the task was “incredibly tough” but that Thornbridge was “the one we were talking about weeks after the visit”. “Absolutely delighted” said Jim Harrison about winning the Award, “whilst we have won many awards in the brewing industry to win one across a wider range of drinks, given the tough competition, is indeed an honour and a reflection on the quality we aim to achieve at Thornbridge”. Thornbridge’s Head Brewer Rob Lovatt was also delighted “I’ve just returned from the World Beer Cup with a medal for our beer and so to win this award so soon after is a real testament to the hard work all my team put in day in and day out” Thornbridge Team with BBC Award

Salop Days

The picturesque Shropshire market town of Bridgnorth has much of interest to the real ale tourist, including two microbreweries and no less than six entries in the 2014 Good Beer Guide. BridgnorthCliffRailway The River Severn runs through the town separating High Town from Low Town which can be accessed by the town’s unique funicular Cliff Railway for the princely sum of £1.10 return.  Over the course of our week’s stay, we had the opportunity to visit the best of the pubs in the High Town and visit many other local tourist attractions including RAF Cosford, West Midlands Safari Park, the ‘as featured on BBC2’ Victorian Farm at Acton Scott and the nearby towns of Shrewsbury and Much Wenlock.
Having arrived late on Friday afternoon, we took a short walk into town to eat and made the splendidly named the Jewel of the Severn our port of call.  Handily placed on Bridgnorth’s High Street, the pub offers the usual Wetherspoon’s experience although we did manage to catch the penultimate day of the Spring Beer Festival. I ordered a pint of Bateman’s Springtime Oatmeal Biscuit Beer (3.6%) and a Norwegian Brown Ale, Nogne 0 (4.5%) which was brewed for the festival at Bateman’s Wainfleet brewery by a Norwegian brewer. Pity I left by vouchers at home! Black Boy, Bridgnorth On Saturday, after returning from the obligatory point-to-point meeting at nearby Bitterley, I ventured into town to visit more of Bridgnorth’s pubs. Situated at the bottom end of the steep and delightfully old fashioned, Cartway, the Black Boy is now the last of over twenty pubs that stood on what once was the only route linking the High and Low towns. Signs around the town explained that the pub had only opened the previous night after a refurbishment and on tonight’s evidence, with no less than ten ales on offer, this pub is surely a shoo-in for the GBG 2015. After a pint of Mild (3.2%) from Hobson’s of Cleobury Mortimer, I headed back into town. Next up was Friars on St Mary’s Street, just off the main drag, a lively, narrow bar in which a band were sound-checking at the far end. The first of the five or so ales on the bar to catch my eye was Sheffield’s own Kelham Island Pale Rider but being on my holidays, I plumped instead for Hobson’s Best (3.8%). After this, I made the short walk along High Street to the Bear where veteran blues quartet, The Salopian Dudes were becoming irked by the presence of a somewhat worse-for-wear lady, intent on interrupting their interpretations of Muddy Waters and BB King standards. After witnessing her increasingly outrageous antics over a pint of Salopian Shropshire Gold (3.8%), I headed back to our guest house via the GBG-listed, King’s Head on Whitburn Street.  This 16th century coaching inn is very much a place to enjoy a meal although it does have a comfortable bar area in which to sample real ales such as King’s Escape (4.2%), a blonde beer from the town’s Bridgnorth Brewing Company. Another strong contender for best pub in the town must surely be the Railwayman’s Arms at the town’s Severn Valley Railway Station at which you can catch a steam train to Bewdley and Kidderminster which are an hour or so away. The quality of the beer here was excellent and the pub was doing good business when we visited on Wednesday evening. Eight real ales (including Abbeydale Moonshine) and two Jack Ratt ciders were available from which I chose Hobson’s Town Crier (4.5%). Golden Lion, Bridgnorth On our final night in Bridgnorth, we visited the remaining GBG-listed pubs in the High Town, beginning with the Golden Lion on High Street, a traditional two-roomed former Mitchell & Butler’s outlet. Pale Rider was once again available on the bar along with beers from Hobson’s, Wye Valley and the Three Tuns brewery in nearby Bishop’s Castle. The chosen beer here was XXX Pale (4.3%) from Three Tuns. After calling briefly at Banks-owned Shakespeare, we moved quickly along on West Castle Street, to the Old Castle, a popular all-rounder serving bar food, with a games room at the rear and a friendly bar area serving four real ales including Hobson’s (them again!) Town Crier (4.5%). The final pub of the night, and indeed the week was the White Lion, just along from the Castle and home to the Hop and Stagger brewery. Needless to say, Hop and Stagger beer was available in the form of Tangerine Dream (3.8%). Shakespeare -Bridgnorth We really enjoyed our time in Bridgnorth. From a pubs and beer perspective, I can’t recall many towns of it’s size with quite so many good pubs serving real ale. And at just over two hour’s drive from Sheffield, Bridgnorth is well worth seeking out. IMG_0270 Patrick Hancock Dronfield & District CAMRA

Acorn Brewery

We welcome a new member of staff to Acorn towers this month, Ben Tysoe will be taking on the role of sales manager for the South Yorkshire region. Many of you may know Ben as he was the manager of the Devonshire Cat in Sheffield for 10 years. New beers for June include: Sur Votre Velo (on your bike) 5%. This is the first beer that Bruce Woodcock, our youngest brewer(aged 23) has put together. Brewed with Halcyon pale ale malt. The hop additions contain American Mount Hood, Chinook and Cascade then dry hopped in the fermenter with Cluster hops. The results are very impresive with floral and citrus aromas and a grapefruit undertone. Autumn Pale England’s Dreaming 4.5%. Our football beer makes another appearance ready for the World Cup. Light golden in colour and brewed with 3 varieties of English hops – First Gold, Warrior and Bramling Cross, this could be a winning combination! England's_Dreaming

Pub of the Month May 2014

The Closed Shop is one of two pubs opposite one another that have been reborn and made Commonside worth the short ride on the 95 bus up the hill from the City Centre or the walk down the hill from Crookes (the other being the Hallamshire House, now operated by Thornbridge Brewery). Andy Stephens’ Reet Ale Pubs took on the lease with Punch Taverns last year after the pub had gone downhill then closed, he reopened the pub with a range of real ales – some from Blue Bee Brewery which he co-owns along with guests. Not long after, the pub was subject to a refurbishment that left the pub smart, classy and well presented yet still quite traditional. Food was also introduced and this has proved popular with the menu expanded and also a childrens menu introduced. The food hours on a Sunday have also been extended to 9pm, the same as the rest of the week, so Sunday dinner are available right up until the quiz starts. The Sunday night quiz is Andy’s usual pub quiz where all the answers are linked by a tenuous theme, there is also a bingo quiz on Wednesday nights. Sporting action can normally be watched on the TV in the games room at the back of the pub, which also hosts a pool table. Another area that has been subject to refurbishment is the beer garden, which is now quite pleasant in the summer. lego closed shop Paul Howe moved up to the Closed Shop from the Rutland to be installed as assistant manager and the team have all made their own mark on the pub in various small ways, now lead by chef manager Mark Barton. We will be presenting our May Pub of the Month award, as voted for by our members, to the Closed Shop on the evening of Thursday 22nd May. As well as celebrating their award win, they will be celebrating the arrival of Spring with a beer festival which will see a second bar boasting a range of extra guest beers and there will be general party shenanigans too. Please come and join us, we’ll be there from about 8pm.

Cider producers sigh of relief as duty frozen

ciderlogosmall CAMRA has welcomed the Government’s decision in the Budget to freeze cider duty. Making the announcement, the Chancellor highlighted that some cider producers in the West Country had been hit hard by recent weather conditions so needed additional support. This duty freeze will apply to cider with a juice content of 35% or higher, and will not apply to sparkling cider between 5.5% and 8.5% abv. This is a welcome move which will support Britain’s real cider and perry producers – a vital traditional British industry. Andrea Briers, Chair of CAMRA’s Apple Committee commented: “Cider is a traditional British product and I welcome the Chancellor’s decision to freeze cider duty to help those who keep this tradition alive.  I would encourage you to help real cider or perry makers thrive by visiting a pub and trying some.” CAMRA has cautioned that small cider producers (making below 70 hectolitres each year) already pay no duty, so the benefit of this duty freeze will primarily be felt by slightly larger producers. CAMRA is continuing to campaign for a new cider duty system to support real cider with a considerably higher juice content. For more information on real cider and perry, visit www.camra.org.uk/cider.