An afternoon in Castleford

We recently visited Castleford: an interesting mix of new bars and long-established outlets. The Ninth opened the day before our visit and provided, among others, Horsforth House Trousers (4.4%). Other recently established outlets, Doghouse and Yorkshire Craft Beers, have a range of cask/craft beers. Among others, Doghouse provided Amber (4.5%) from Selby-based, Jolly Sailor and Theakston Peculiar IPA (5.1%). The latter is hopped with UK-grown Harlequin, Jester and Olicana. 

Yorkshire Craft is located in an old riverside mill, close to the 2008 Millennium Bridge with its striking curved design. This compliments the nearby railway underpass, Tickle Cock Bridge.

Wetherspoons outlet, the Glass Blower, the ex-main post and sorting office, provided an excellent 6% pale, Hoptropolis, brewed at Hook Norton, with assistance from Mitch Steele (New Realm Brewing, Atlanta). Voted the Champion Beer in the Autumn 2023 Wetherspoons Beer Festival, this IPA utilises American Azacca, Citra and Mosaic hops. Locally, glass-making began in the 17th century. 200 years later, it was Castleford’s main industry, disappearing with the 1983 closure of United Glass. 

Our last beer was in the Junction, a GBG pub which, for several years, has prided itself on providing ‘beer from the wood,’ the Old Mill Styrian Wolf (4.2%) hitting the spot before the train home. 

Dave & Simon Pickersgill

Castleford can easily be reached from Sheffield by train – the Sheffield to Leeds all stations stopping service operated by Northern calls there.

PUBlic Transport

During July bus operators have been holding a consultation on proposed changes to bus timetables and routes from 1 September to reflect demand building back up differently post covid.

Bus route 8 from Ecclesfield to Birley will be split with some journeys running to Dyke Vale Road instead of Birley Lane tram stop, replacing route 41 which will be withdrawn. The 8/8a from Crystal Peaks is withdrawn and replaced by new local minibus services M44/M45.

The 1a and 11 Herdings to Chapeltown will be withdrawn with the 47/48 Herdings-Shiregreen making a comeback with changes to the 75 replacing the 1a to Chapeltown.

The 95/95a is also to be withdrawn with the Meadowhall end of the route replaced by changes to the 75 whilst Walkley will be served by new routes 54/55/55a which will run from Walkley to Handsworth via Sheffield Parkway then continuing to either Rotherham via Treeton (replacing withdrawn route 73) or to Crystal Peaks via either Aston or Woodhouse.

Greystones gets a better service with route 82 diverted that way with the 6 changed to run more directly on Ecclesall Road instead of via Greystones.

On route 52 buses will be extended beyond Crookes to Hillsborough all day whilst on the 52a there will be an improved Loxley/Wisewood service including the introduction of a Sunday service.

There are changes to the 88 Ecclesfield to Bents Green with increased frequencies and a different route in the Firth Park area.

Stocksbridge and Worrall see some improvement too with the 57a running later into the evening.

The 41, 42, X54 and X74 are both withdrawn and replaced by a new network of routes numbered 70/70a/71/71a.

South Pennine Community Transport will be running a series of one day a week buses from Holmfirth – Monday to Meadowhall, Wednesday to Castleton and Thursday to Hillsborough

More information at travelsouthyorkshire.com.

Meanwhile Supertram has a programme of rail replacement works over the summer holidays as follows:

  • 20 July to 2 August: Blue route closed between Gleadless Townend and Halfway with trams running to Herdings Park instead of Halfway. Replacement buses to connect Gleadless to Halfway.
  • 3 August to 11 August: Blue and Purple route closed between Sheffield Station and Herdings Park. The Blue route to operate in two parts with replacement buses running Sheffield City Centre to Gleadless to connect.
  • 12 August to 1 September: Yellow route closed between Hillsborough and Middlewood with trams running to Malin Bridge instead of Middlewood.

There is also expected to be some disruption to Tram Train services to Rotherham at weekends from September onwards as work begins to build a new station at Magna, which the joint SYMCA/Network Rail project team are aiming to have ready for the summer 2025 National Rail timetable commencing next May.

More information at supertram.com.

Meanwhile on the Derbyshire buses there is some disruption caused by long term roadworks affecting bus 272 in Bradwell and bus 65 in Grindleford until September, altered timetables at derbysbus.info.

Trip to Torrside tap event

Funny month for the weather, June. As 5/6ths of us met at Midland Station platform 5a on a warm, cloudy day for our trip out into Derbyshire. Andy C joined the packed train at Dore & Totley Station for the journey to New Mills.

Unfortunately due to a landslide, the train would only reach Chinley Station with a replacement bus completing the journey. However, there was a 10 minute walk back up the hill, to where we had  just passed. Annoying when Newtown Station is virtually across the road – which Andy C had travelled to on the train via Hazel Grove reaching the brewery quarter of an hour before everyone else – he was in a different part of the train… 

Torrside Brewery is part of the marina complex on Hibbert Street, sitting opposite the famous Swizzels sweet factory, although the shop wasn’t open on this occasion for purchases. The Tap itself is a converted boat repair shop and is kitted out with casks on stillage, a hopper and benches to enjoy the offerings of Torrside and Osaka Local food truck.    

The range of cask and keg is impressive and boast pales, bitter and dark beers. Others and myself plumped for the Torrside Mosaic, 4.8% APA. This was followed by the I Am Curious Lemon, again 4.8% but an EPA this time. I am not a darker beer drinker generally. Although I did try the excellent Kuro Neko, a 5.2% Schwarzbier, akin to an airy stout packed with flavour. As the Mosaic ran out, it was swiftly replaced with All of the Klaxons, a more sessionable 4% EPA. We all tasted a sample a lovely smoked dark, bottled beer, purchased by Andy. 

An enjoyable social few hours was enjoyed by the group around the table with a few anecdotes told that had all howling, including Malc’s Wetherspoon place tale (you had to be there..)

We set off for the next bar in this old mining and mill town. Boasting the Grade II listed Torr Vale Mill, which at 210 years of continuous use was the longest running in the UK. The town’s industry was also served by the rivers Sett and Goyt for power, and the Peak Forest Canal for transportation. 

Arriving at the Beer Shed at the top of Market Street, we were greeted to a compact, narrow bar displaying old beer adverts on the walls. Beer was courtesy of Thornbridge, with the 4.5% Fonio Pale Ale, but offered another 2 handpumps.

We then departed for what we thought would be our final pub the Masons Arms on the bottom end of High Street, a pretty and narrow lane with terraced cottages and cobbles. This pub offered Robinsons beers and a couple of guests. I enjoyed the Unicorn bitter at 4.3%, and the Storm Brewing Co Bosley Cloud, a Blonde Golden of 4.1% with adjuncts of fruits, spices and occasionally coffee. 

So, on returning to our shuttle bus back to Chinley is where the comedy, or not, started. We were in plenty of time for the 19:23 to Sheffield, but after 10-15 minutes after it should have arrived, we suspected it wouldn’t, especially as the 20:23 was cancelled too. This confirmed our decamping to the nearby Chinley Bar and Lounge. Not expecting much, we were surprised to find 2 cask ales on the bar. Chatsworth Gold, a 4.6% Blonde/Golden and the classic Bass, 4.4% bitter. All this was accompanied with laughs at Andy Cullen’s tale of radiator covers (you had to be there..)

We then returned to Chinley Station for the 21:23, only to find that too was cancelled. Fortunately, shortly afterwards we were informed a minibus was enroute to return us to Sheffield. After picking up a few passengers from other stations, and dropping off Andy C at Dore & Totley, we arrived back 2.5hours after our original time. John, Phil and myself decided on a nightcap at Shakespeares where I partook in a Fuggle Bunny Stomper, weighing in at 5% and a refreshing SeaCider Blueberry of 4%. 

It was now taxi time, but although an exhausting day, we can all look back on great beer, food, company and a lot of laughs. If there no rail disruptions, New Mills is well worth 7 hrs of anyone’s time on a Torrside Brewery Tap Saturday.  

Chesterfield DIY pub tour

Local history enthusiast Shaun Stevenson and Chesterfield CAMRA’s InnSpire magazine editor Chris Fox, have teamed up to produce a high quality, self-guided Chesterfield pub tour booklet called “Historical Tales & Traditional Ales”.

The guide begins at The Rutland on Stevenson’s Place in the shadow of the Crooked Spire.  The tour meanders through some of Chesterfield’s best pubs and many of its historical locations including the Crooked Spire and the Market place.  With histories and anecdotes from 10 pubs open today and many more that have been lost to time, the booklet finishes at the Chesterfield Arms.

Shaun has been running the Chesterfield Great Historic Pub Tour since 2019 and has built up a wealth of information that he recounts in an engaging and easy to read style. Shaun remarked, “We wanted to create something accessible for anyone who is interested in Chesterfield, its pubs and their history. Something that didn’t cost very much and is entertaining, rather than just dry dates and names”.

The pages contain stories of murder, mystery and dark secrets. Everything from pop stars, a streaker, the Oddfellows and even a former prime minister who opened one of Chesterfield’s pubs.  “Many people will enjoy a trip down memory lane because we also include some of the more recent history and anecdotes”, said Shaun.

In order to get as many booklets sold as possible the price is just £1 and it is available from every pub on the route – The Rutland, Pig & Pump, The Golden Fleece, the Portland, The Sun, The Market, Hidden Knight, Barley Mow, Gasoline and the Chesterfield Arms.

The driving force behind creating this booklet is Chris Fox. Chris says “Working with Shaun has been a pleasure, we are both really proud of the finished product. We just need people to go out and buy it, do the tour and support our local pubs”.

Anyone wanting a copy that can’t visit Chesterfield town centre can obtain a copy by arrangement with Shaun on 07908 183 160. The booklet can also be viewed and downloaded on the Chesterfield CAMRA website.

Join us for a RambAle

By the time you read this we’ll have already done three out of the five RambAles planned for this year. Back in April we had a walk around Redmires Reservoirs. The 51 bus took us to Shiny Sheff which only had one beer (Jaipur) on draft. Having done our walk round the reservoirs we called in Three Merry Lads on what was its last day of operating. Luckily it still had a choice of beers and food available. Our final stop was at the newly reopened Sportsman Inn where a new couple had taken over this well established and popular pub.

May saw us taking a 65 bus out to Eyam, with a field path walk to Bulls Head at Foolow. A drink there set us up for the walk up the hill to Barrel Inn at Bretton (pictured) for a drink and spot of lunch. Then a steepish walk down to Miners Arms in Eyam for our final drink to celebrate John’s 80th birthday before our bus back to Sheffield.

In June we used the annual One Valley Beer Festival as an excuse to visit Dronfield and some of the surrounding villages. Starting at Drone Valley Brewery, we sampled some of their excellent range of beers before walking up to Miner’s Arms at Hundall which was getting quite busy by now. A shortish road walk took us up to Traveller’s Rest at Apperknowle for another choice of beers and to wish Glyn a happy 78th birthday. We then walked down to Dronfield where the festival was really taking over the town. Dronfield Arms was busy inside and equally crowded out in their back yard where they had another bar. But queueing for 40 minutes for a pint soon had us heading for the exits and our buses home. We’ll choose a different route (or day) next year.

We still have two more RambAles planned for later this year which you can join us on. In July we shall be going to Stanton in Peak, Birchover, Darley Bridge and Bakewell. In August a trip out the Hope Valley Beer Festival via calls at Bradwell and Brough. Details in the diary and below.

Although we have a fairly regular group of people coming out on our walks, they are open to all CAMRA members and everyone is welcome to join us on any of these fairly leisurely short walks.

However you are advised to come suitably equipped for the day’s walking, which may be rough, wet and muddy in places (even in summer). You come prepared for the possibility of changeable and inclement weather and will also need to bring (or be able to buy) sufficient food and drink for yourself for the day. We hope you can join us on one or more of our RambAles!

Cheers, Malcolm and Jenny 😀🤓


Stanton in Peak
Sat 13 Jul

Catch the 10:40 218 bus from Sheff Interchange to Bakewell to connect with 12:21 172 bus to Stanton in Peak for the Flying Childers Inn. We’ll then walk back to Birchover for the Red Lion. From there we’ll walk to the Square & Compass in Darley Bridge. Then a bus back to Bakewell for Joiners Arms and/or buses back to Sheffield.


Bradwell, Brough & Hope
Sat 24 Aug

Catch the 12:36 272 Castleton bus from Sheffield Interchange as far as Bradwell where we’ll visit the Bowling Green. We’ll walk to Brough for a visit to Intrepid Brewery (if open) before making our way to the Old Hall Hotel at Hope for their Bank Holiday Beer & Cider Festival. Buses or trains back from Hope.


Beery adventure in…

The land of the rising sun.

Our vice chair Paul Manning and his wife Bev recently visited Japan and South Korea trying the local beer scene on their travels.

Our 18-day adventure started with a brief flight stopover in the UAE at the ultra-modern sand dune shaped Abu Dhabi airport where we had time to sample a pint of 1758 Belgium IPA but at £13 each, they were easily the most expensive of the trip.

After 16 hours total flying time we arrived in Narita airport and, after a 40-mile taxi transfer, reached the excellent Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, Tokyo which was to be our base for the first three nights. Fighting off the dreaded jetlag we headed out on a prearranged night-time beer and food tour round Shinjuku. Our tour group consisted off ourselves, three Americans, an Australian and our Japanese guide.

A great camaraderie ensued during the four-hour tour which consisted of stops at some great
street food and beer stalls where the delights of fried chicken, dumplings and even raw
horse meat were tried, washed down with copious amounts of the local beers – mainly Kirin
and Asahi super dry lagers together with the local favourite, highball cocktail.

Shinjuku at night was like New York Times Square with neon lights, the famous 3D digital cat, a towering Godzilla and was crowded with people which wasn’t a surprise for the world’s most populated city where 34 million people live in the greater Tokyo conurbation. After a detour to a local Shinto shrine where we paid our respects, the tour finished in what could only be described as a dive bar and after more Kirin I tasted some snake infused liquor. It was basically a local Japanese whisky with a decapitated snake head occupying the bottle!

Having survived the horse meat and snake liquor our next two days were again on pre-booked tours of wider Tokyo and further afield. The city is an amazing metropolis but so safe and clean – no graffiti or litter in sight which contrasted wildly with home. We explored Tokyo far and wide on the first day visiting the emperor’s imperial palace, the royal Shinto shrine with hundreds of saki beer barrels, a trip to the top of the Skytree tower for amazing views and a trip round Tokyo bay.

Beer opportunities were a little limited, with some green matcha flavoured ale at lunch, followed by a dark Asahi pale at the tower summit and more Kirin on the boat. The 45th floor lounge bar in our hotel more than sufficed for a few more lagers and cocktails accompanying dinner with jaw dropping night-time city views.

The second day was bright and clear with the main highlight a visit to the snow-covered foothills of Mount Fuji which was out in her full glory (we were lucky as she is only seen out of cloud around 60 days a year). A cable car ride over a sulphur emitting dormant volcano and a pirate ship lake ride followed before another highlight being a super-fast return trip by bullet train to Tokyo. The ship had an excellent Gora Brewery Rising Sun IPA but our beer highlight was a visit to a Hitachino Brewing’s Nest Beer outlet just outside one of Tokyo train station’s numerous exits.

The craft beers were excellent at approximately £5 a pint, and we spent a good two hours sampling their Dai Dai Ale 6% IPA, Amber Ale 6%, Mikan Session IPA 4.5%, Nipponia 6% IPA, History 1602 Pale Ale 5% and Espresso Stout 8%. I’d recommend seeking them out if ever in Tokyo.

The second part of our trip was a 12-night cruise down the east side of Japan onboard the cruise liner Celebrity Millennium. A great ship with attentive staff, great entertainment and food.

Onboard, craft beers were either bottled or canned and mostly American. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Goose Island IPA, Sam Adams Boston Lager, Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale wheat IPA, Guiness (on St Patrick’s Day) were all sampled together with some more interesting brews including 90 Minute IPA 9% imperial IPA from Dogfish Head Brewery, a Unibroue Brewery (Canada) La Fin du Monde 9% wheat beer and a Terrapin Beer (Georgia, US) Luau Krunkles IPA 6.5% passion fruit, orange and guava IPA.

While the East China Sea was at times rather rough, the weather was mostly dry if a little chilly. Our ports of call were varied with trips to more Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, castles, spectacular underground caves, and exquisite Japanese gardens mixed in with spectacular views over the cities of Okinawa, Kagoshima, Osaka, Kyoto in Japan, Jeju Island in South Korea and paddling in the Pacific Ocean in Shizuoka.

Of course, the alcohol side was satisfied by trips to a saki brewery factory and museum with an 18% saki beer purchased, Nanto brewery in Okinawa and a sweet potato shōchū 25% proof beer purchase in Kagoshima.

All in all, a spectacular trip with plenty of opportunities to sample Japanese culture, cities and
the beer scene in Tokyo which is highly recommended.

Punk & Pints

Beer in and around the Scarborough Punk Festival

My friends set off for Scarborough early Good Friday morning, but being a foolish football fan, I went to the game after booking a Northern train for the day after. 

Saturday saw me rise at 03:30 to prepare and get the taxi for the 05:42 to Scarborough. The train was akin to a magical mystery tour, and my split ticket to Doncaster, then onwards took me through Goole, Beverley, Bridlington and Filey before arrival in Scarborough, but at least it was direct. 

On arrival I went to my hotel the Palace Hill, a 260 year old listed building, just across from the Merchant. My friend and I had to leave the third person suffering from the previous night. One quick pint in the Golden Last saw a Beavertown Neck Oil on keg at 4.3%, as there was no cask. On arrival, the Spa Pavilion was already Filling up at 13:00. 

Surprisingly for a punk festival, it had two real ales to its beer roster. I tried both, and they were well kept. The first was Wold Top Bitter, a very sessionable 3.7% from the Driffield based brewery. Second was the festival branded Scarborough Punk Festival IPA, a 4.2%, again brewed by Wold Top. 

Awaking the next morning, and not with the first band I wanted to see until 16:40, I set out at 13:00 to have an ale adventure. 

First stop was halfway down N Marine Road, where I had a well kept pint of Taylors Landlord, 4.3%, described as pale, but more a lighter bitter to me. 

I then had a stroll round the North Bay before taking the open top bus to the South Bay. Alighting near the traffic lights near the Frigate, a lovely small real ale bar just up a small, steep cobbled street. I had a pint of Maxim Samson Bitter, a good, smooth bitter of 4%. 

Next was the short walk to the Merchant, a lightly themed Irish bar, but with a nice WB Blonde on cask at 4%. 

I then walked further up to the hill to Dickens, festooned with TVs and tourists. Theakston Summit, a bright, crisp 4.2% EPA was on offer, so that was partaken.

It was time to watch the bands again, so I strolled down past the Grand Hotel to the Spa Pavilion for a few more SPF IPAs. After a great four bands, we called in the Lord Nelson where a Theakston Best Bitter was drank for one more for the road.

The short hop to the hotel was uneventful. So all in all, somewhere I would like to revisit with two days to  venture further afield to the bars I missed in Scarborough CAMRA’s recommendations. 

PUBlic Transport

The weekend of 11-13 May sees some changes to Derbyshire buses.

In Killamarsh service 80 to Chesterfield has a change of operator and route, with First South Yorkshire replacing Hulleys of Baslow. A direct bus to Sheffield is once again introduced with First bus 120k – this is the existing 120 with one bus an hour extended beyond Crystal Peaks. Timetables are available from Derbyshire County Council at derbysbus.info

In the Peak District Stagecoach’s Peak Sightseer open top bus service makes a return for 2024, this time with two routes – Blue route from Chatsworth to Castleton on an hourly frequency and Red route from Chatsworth to Bakewell every half hour. There are also some feeder trips at the start and end of day with pick ups at Meadowhead, Woodseats, Ecclesall and Totley. The ticket price this year is £9.50 for an adult or £25 for a group of 5 people with discounts offered for concessionary pass holders and Wayfarer ticket holders. The ticket is a “Gold DayRider” offering all day unlimited hop-on-hop-off travel on the Peak Sightseer services plus all other Stagecoach buses in the area. More information online at stagecoachbus.com

Also in our area with less significant timetable or route changes are buses 65, 208, 257, 272 and X17 whilst on Supertram there is engineering work from 25 May to 2 June – details at travelsouthyorkshire.com.

Peak Sightseer open top buses – Red route
Peak Sightseer open top buses – Blue route

North Derbyshire pub judging

With our entry of the Old Hall Hotel into the North Derbyshire regional entry round of the national Pub of the Year competition comes an obligation to judge the other entries in our region, from the Matlock, Chesterfield and Dronfield CAMRA branches. This was a fairly easy trip on the bus to do so we made an ad-hoc social of it.

A group of us met on the X17 bus from Sheffield to Matlock Green for our first pub of the day, the Red Lion, which is also home to Moot Ales. A range of their own beers plus guests were on the handpumps with an overall range of six cask ales available (seven were advertised but the Bass was unavailable).

Despite slightly windy conditions the sun was out and it was pleasant enough to take a walk into Matlock town centre and over the river bridge for a couple of bonus extra pubs – bod Matlock, Titanic Brewery’s café bar, where a little light lunch was enjoyed, before a further cheeky half a few doors down in the Twenty Ten bar, the Matlock branch award winner last year!

Back on the X17 next, to Chesterfield, followed by a bit of a walk (some of our party regretted not waiting for a connecting bus!) up to Brampton to visit the Rose & Crown. The main part of the pub was packed and the outdoor drinking areas were fairly busy for the time of year too, however the snug room was empty so we made ourselves comfy in there and enjoyed a couple of well kept ales from a fairly extensive choice served by staff who were friendly and helpful despite being busy.

Lessons were learned and we caught a bus from Brampton back into Chesterfield town centre in order to catch the 44 bus up to Coal Aston to visit the final pub to be judged, the Cross Daggers. This is a traditional community local which only opens in the evening and at around 6pm on Saturday when we arrived was packed with a great atmosphere, we were lucky and managed to squeeze in on an empty table!

The beer range wasn’t as exotic as the other pubs we’d visited – Tetley Bitter, Adnams Broadside, Timothy Taylor Landlord and a Drone Valley beer providing the LocAle representation – however all the beers tried were in immaculate condition and served by efficient staff.

Having visited all three pubs we were required to judge a good number of the party headed home from here, however a couple of us jumped in a taxi for the short trip down the hill into Dronfield and enjoyed an excellent pizza at the Dronfield Arms (which is also home to Temper Brewing) and saw a band performing at the Green Dragon before boarding a 43 bus back to Sheffield.

Bus X17 runs limited stop between Sheffield, Chesterfield and Matlock every 30 minutes Monday to Saturday daytime and hourly on Sundays. Bus 44 runs from Sheffield to Chesterfield via Coal Aston and Dronfield hourly in the daytime and every 2 hours in the evening. A Derbyshire Wayfarer pass for all buses in Derbyshire (including direct buses from Sheffield to/from Derbyshire) costs £8 for the day or single fares are currently capped at just £2 per ride. Check out more details of the pubs at whatpub.com.

Great Escape to Poland

In May last year I went on a short weekend break with friends to Wrocław, Poland to coincide with the Wrocławski Festiwal Dobrego Piwa, which translates as the Wrocław Good Beer Festival. Held over three days in late May or June each year. Last year was the 13th Festival held on 26-28 May.

The event took place on the concourse of the Tarczyński Arena, a football stadium in Wrocław built for the 2012 European Football Championship. It is indicative of the Polish love of cured meats that it is sponsored by a sausage company! Over 70 breweries from across Poland operated stands selling beers, ciders and meads direct to customers. Numerous stalls selling a variety of Polish savoury and sweet food options and a stage with live bands/DJs complemented the drink offerings.

Our plan was to attend the festival in the late afternoon and evenings and spend the rest of our time visiting some of the many nearby tourist attractions.

The historic city of Wrocław itself is located on the river Oder in the southwest of Poland. The German border is around 150 km West and the border with Czechia less than 75 km to the southwest. One of the popular landmarks in Wrocław is the market square in the old town. Here beneath the Old Town Hall is Piwnica Świdnicka one of the oldest restaurants in the world, open continuously since 1273. In front of the town hall we sampled some of their own beers from an outside portable bar. We then had a dark beer, Ciemne Piwo, at the nearby Spiz restaurant.

Friday morning day we drove out to the Stołowe Mountains National Park on the Czech border. Here we explored the unusual rock formations on this section of the “Table Mountains”. We then walked a few miles across into Czechia to small hostel to have refreshing glass of Krakonoš Czech Pilsner.

That evening we headed to the beer festival sampling various beers including Attack of Fruitiness (Fruited Gose) from TankBusters, Sangriale (Fruit beer) from Pinta, and much needed plate of golanka, a Polish pork knuckle dish.

Saturday morning we headed over to Książ Castle. A very impressive 400 room castle, once home to the Hochbergs, one of the wealthiest European noble families. It is built in the Renaissance style with surrounding terraces and landscaped gardens. Despite is fairy tale looks however it has a dark past. In 1944 the castle was seized by the Nazis. Under SS supervision, a vast network of underground tunnels was dug below the castle using forced labour from a nearby concentration camp. Parts of these tunnels are now accessible to the public on guided tours.

After following the interesting audio guided tour around the castle, while waiting for our tunnel tour,  we relaxed in the terraced gardens with a cheesecake washed down with a Książęce Cherry Ale.

In the evening we then made our way back to the beer festival. Beers sampled included a Podróż na wschód (Polish Session IPA) from Markowy brewery and a Berliner Weisse from Lobster brewery.

On Sunday we headed north to the town of Żagań. During World War II however, this was the German town of Sagan and home to the Stalag Luft III prison-of-war camp, made famous by the 1963 Hollywood film The Great Escape and also featuring in this year’s Hanks/Spielberg mini-series Masters of the Air. There is a visitor centre and museum, featuring a full-size reconstruction of Hut 104 from which the tunnel “Harry” was started. To the west of the site you can drive into the forest to the location of the North Compound used for British and Commonwealth POWs. Here are stone slabs marking the route of the “Harry” tunnel, memorials inscribed with the names and nations of the inmates and a reconstructed guard tower giving views across the site, where the foundations of the various buildings can be seen.

In the evening, we headed back into Wroclaw to see the multimedia fountains (one of the largest displays in Europe) at Szczytnicki Park near the UNESCO World Heritage Centenary Hall.

On the final day we visited various outdoor drinking locations in town, including a bar on a riverside floating pontoon. In the evening, we went to the Solidarity themed restaurant Konspira. Here we enjoyed some regional Polish dishes, washed down with some Polish cider, seated in the back of a jeep located in the venue’s courtyard.

This was my second visit to Wrocław, and I would certainly recommend it as European weekend break location. This year’s festival is from Fri 21 – Sun 23 June 2024.