I recently returned from Belgium after a few days on a trip which involved Beer, Trains & Trams. We stayed in the home of Belgian rail, Mechelan: my visit including several visits to mostly volunteer-run, tram/train rides/museums.
Steam Train Maldegem-Eeklo is a heritage railway based at the former National Rail station of Maldegem. This houses the largest number of operational diesel and steam locomotives in Flanders. All enjoyed the trip on a narrow gauge line in old open wagons pulled by one of their diesel locomotives.
The Dendermonde-Puurs Steam Train heritage standard gauge railway took us on a 45 minute return journey from Puurs (Signal Box) to Baasrode-Noord Station. The track winds through the Scheldeland through the provinces of Antwerp and East Flanders. On board was waiter service: Dilewyns Vicaris Triple 8.5% and, the house train beer, Brouwer Stomerke 6% were sampled.
Rail Rebecq Rognon (RRR or Petit Train Du Bonheur – The Small Train of Happiness) explores the old SNCB Lines 115 and 123 on a 4 km line crossing the Rebecquoise countryside along the Senne and the Vallée des Oiseaux. The diesel loco took us on a return ride on the narrow gauge line between Rebecq and Rognon. Florence Triple 8% was available at the station café.
Our major tram ride was Tram 44 from Montgomery Metro Station (Brussels). This starts underground before emerging onto Avenue de Tervuren. It then rumbles past Stoclet House and the tram museum before plunging into the forest. The journey ends some 20 minutes later at the 19th-century tram station in Tervuren, a Royal suburb of Brussels within the once great ancient Sonian Forest. The Tram Museum (opened 1976) housed in the 1897 tram depot has a vast collection of 130 vehicles including a 1869 horse-drawn tram.
TramSite Schepdaal (Dilbeek) is the only remaining local (or vicinal) tramway depot in Belgium, the line closing in 1970. This depot served the first tramway in Flemish Brabant: Brussels to Ninove (1888). The oldest buildings at Schepdaal date from then. The station café provided local beer, Angerik Dilleke 5.1%.
Belgium June 2025
We also visited Duvel Depot in Breendonk, the tap of the family-controlled Duvel Moortgat brewery (1871), and the Batteliek Microbrewery on the outskirts of Mechelen. The latter is an old red brick church, now a brewery, bar and eatery under the auspices of Het Anker. The tasting flight was chosen: Baobab Triple 8,8%, Ipapotamus 7.7% and Derkal 8.3%. The Het Anchor Brouwerij tap (Mechelen) also provided a flight: Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor 8.0%, Gouden Carolus Whisky Infused 11.7% and a Batteliek Bieren.
Several other bars were visited – recommended in Mechelen are Beer Central, Hanekeef, Het Maanlicht, Kuub and Moemoe. Het Maanlicht provided one of the most interesting beers of the trip: De Blauwe Kuip Burton 5.2% – an (almost) British bitter served in a half-pint ‘jug.’ Other recommendations include: Cuytegemhoeve Beer Cafe (Puurs-Sint-Amands) and Eetcafe D’Akte (Lennik).
Strangest sight of the trip was undoubtably an open-air tango dancing class in the Veermarkt in Mechelen – only in Belgium … the next trip is planned for September.
Salzburg is in Austria, situated in a mountainous area close to the German border. The city centre is a UNESCO world heritage site with a rich history. It was the birthplace and residence of composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and the river Salzach was used to export salt from the surrounding salt mines. More recently, the film The Sound of Music, starring Julie Andrews and Christpher Plummer was filmed at many locations in the salzburg area, and bus tours of these can be booked by enthusiasts.
I visited Salzburg for the third time with my husband James at the end of May 2025. We arrived in a drizzly city centre with one hour before checking into our apartment. We decided to head to nearby Zum Zirkelwirt. This is a lovely bar/restaurant serving traditional Austrian dishes and beers on Keg taps from the Hirter brewery. They have a Beer of the Month but this had sold out, so I opted for a Hirter weissbier (5.4%). This was very refreshing after travelling and had a soft taste. A great start to our trip.
On our first evening, I had booked Zwettler’s restaurant for dinner. Here, they serve beer from the Kaiser Karl brewery on draught. James had the Kaiser Karl dark beer (5%), which had a very malty taste and coffee aroma. My choice was the Zwickle unfiltered beer (5%), which had a refreshing and clean taste. Both beers went very well with our Austrian meal of beef soup with pancakes, Zwettler Schnitzel and mixed dumplings.
On day two, we visited Salzburg Zoo, which is a short bus ride from the city centre. Here, there is a bar serving meals, coffees and bottled beer from the Stiegl brewery. I chose the refreshing Stiegl-Hell lager (4.5%), which was very tasty and full bodied and great for a sunny day. James had the Steigl-Wiessbeer (5.1%) This tastes malty, and has a beautiful golden colour and a banana aftertaste. We had the Stiegl-Weiss beer again later on in our trip, when we visited Hofwerfen fortress, which is a filming location for the film Where Eagles Dare, and also includes a falconry display, guided castle tour and an exhibition on witchcraft. Stiegl-Weiss beer is commonly served at tourist attractions.
On our second evening, we visited the central Coffee and Booze micropub, which serves a range of international beers. I tried Starobrno (5%) on draught. This is a Czech beer with a deep golden colour and toffee notes, James drink of choice here was Weizenbergal Shwartzbier, served in a bottle (4.8%), which was a tasty dark beer. Accompanied by a 1980s soundtrack, this bar brings a fun and relaxed vibe. Later on in the same bar, i tasted the Edelweiss Hofbrau (4.5%). This is a rust coloured beer with banana notes.
Day three saw a visit to the Celtic Spirit Irish Bar. Here, I tasted the Obertrumer zwickl beer (4.8%). This was the hoppiest beer I had so far. It was a pale colour and slightly fizzy with toffee notes. James had bottled die weiss dunkel here (5.4%). This was a smooth, malty beer with a banana taste.
My favourite drinking establishment in Salzburg is Augustiner Bräustübl. This is a monastry situated at the foot of the Montsberg hill, and is close to thecity centre. Here, there is only one choice of beer, Märzen Bier (4.6%) that is brewed on site by the resident monks. It is served on cask by the litre and half litre. You begin by buying a beer token for the size of beer you would like, collect a stein from the shelf, rinse your stein in the water fountain, then hand your token and stein to the bartender who will fill it up for you. The beer can then be enjoyed either in one of their beer halls or in the 1000 seat beer garden. The beer is very easy drinking and refreshing authentic Austrian taste. Soft drinks and snacks are also available from various stalls. We visited here on multiple nights of our trip.
Me and James had a great time visiting salzburg. It is an excellent destination for a city break, with opportunities to visit the mountains too. The majority of draught beer served here is brewed on site or close by. This, along with the beer culture, has made it a good choice for us. Goodbye Salzburg, until next time.
A recent birthday celebration saw a few days in Berlin. Travel was via Ryanair from Manchester: a full plane including a very well-behaved school party. The S9 S-bahn then took us to our base at the Premier Inn Alexanderplatz. This central location allowed us to walk to most of the key sites, the exercise providing the excuse for the occasional rest-stop.
Bars visited included Brauhaus Georgbrau (Spreeufer 4, 10178). Established in 1992, this large riverside old-style brewery and bar provided traditional favourites, Hells and Dunkel (both 5%).
Close by, Weihenstephaner Berlin (Neue Promenade 5, Hackescher Markt), the main Berlin outlet of the Bavarian State Brewery of Weihenstephan (Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan), provided a full range of German-style beers, all served by waiters wearing Lederhosen. The Tradition Bayerlisch Dunkel (5.2%) was sampled. Established in 1040 and owned by the Free State of Bavaria, this brewery claims to be the oldest in the world.
Our favourite outlet was Brauerei Lemke Berlin (founded 1999), under the railway arches at Hackeschen Markt. Here, Die Bierprobe provided six 0.1 L tasters: Bohemia Pilsner (5.0%), Original (5.4%), Wizen (5.5%), 030 Pale (5.0%), India Pale Ale (6.5%) and Budike Weisse (3.4%). The Budike had a gentle sourness while the IPA was sound to the style. These were the best beers tasted during our short stay.
Other beers encountered included: Berliner Pranke, Echt Mild Bier (6%), a pale lager from the local Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brauerei and Stark-Bier (7.5%), a Doppelbock from Störtebeker Braumanufaktur (1827), based in Stralsund, on the Baltic Sea. This brewery is named after Klaus, a late C14th pirate, who was executed in 1401.
We also visited many other well-known spots, including the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, the Holocaust Memorial, Potsdam, Neue NationalGallerie and Tiergarten.
In short, an excellent break, lots of culture and some interesting beers!
In December I visited friends in Istanbul with my wife. We’d lived there from 2020-23 for work and it’s always good to visit again – on this trip we stayed in the same apartment block we’d lived in, in Şişli.
I was fortunate enough to live nearby what you might consider Turkey’s home of ‘craft’ beer. Bomontiada was built in the late 1800s as a brewery by Swiss brewers the Bomonti brothers. Bomonti brewery was bought by Turkey’s Anadolu Efes macro-brewer in the 1990s and still exists as a spin-off ‘craft’ label – their Bomonti Filtresis (unfiltered lager, 4.8%) is widely available in both bottles and on taps in many restaurants and pubs in the city, and is my go-to when not in a craft beer bar.
Bomontiada is now home to several bars and restaurants, including Populist, my first stop on this trip – Populist is a chain of currently two brewpubs which, due to peculiarities of Turkish law meaning that a brewery cannot sell its beer direct to the public, serves exclusively beer from Torch Brewery.
Torch and Populist are legally distinct businesses, but all beer served in Populist is Torch. It’s a large space with a huge capacity, and serves what I’d describe as Turkish fusion pub food. Burgers, but also flatbread topped with kokoreç – chopped and spiced lamb intestines.
They brew a range of pale ales and IPAs which usually lean towards a more old school English or west coast IPA rather than the currently popular New England variety. They often have more than one variety of lager on (their 4.9% Kölsch is my go-to on a hot day), usually a nitro stout (5.8%) or occasionally an imperial stout (>8%). For their 1000th brew in 2022 they made a berry vanilla imperial stout at 8.6%. On this visit I had the 5.8% IPA on keg — 330ml for 265TL, or £6. Craft beer in Turkey is fairly expensive due to the various taxes and duties involved, and the cost of ingredients.
On my second day I visited another of Istanbul’s ‘brewery taps’ — SOMX’s Taproomx, in a very central location just off Istiklal. They’re a cuckoo brewery whose beer is brewed in 3 Kafadar’s brewery in Istanbul. I tried a single hop Idaho7 Pale (4.6%), then their Kent Caramel (5%), a brown ale with East Kent Goldings hops! I finished up with their new Nectarlicious NEIPA (6%) — hopped with Nectaron, of course. We then moved on to a local excellent Georgian restaurant, Galaktion.
On the third day (and again on the fourth to meet friends) I ended up in what should be any beer fan’s target when in Istanbul — Sanayi 1-A. They now have two branches and I began in their newer Nişantasi branch, which I hadn’t visited before. I had an Aşne Vişne by 3 Kafadar (5%) which is a sour cherry beer — I believe all its sourness comes from the fruit rather than the brew method.
Later that afternoon I visited the original Sanayi 1-A bar in Maslak, in an area called Atatürk Oto Sanayi. It’s an area full of car garages (oto sanayi means ‘auto industry’) and anyone who’s spent time wandering around industrial estates looking for a taproom will feel at home here. These bars are probably the only independent wholly craft beer bars in the country — many bars in busy areas will have occasional taps of craft beer or bottles in their fridges, but Sanayi is all craft (except for a few token Belfast lager bottles in their fridge).
The Maslak branch has 24 taps, which you’ll usually find occupied by at least 15 beers — all of them are fully engaged for special events. Every beer available is brewed by one of the 10+ breweries in Turkey. I started my visit with an English Gold (a 5% bitter), by 3 Kafadar, who are probably my favourite Turkish brewer.
It also has cats — lots of them lurking, often behind the bar, sometimes getting into little brawls. You can’t go anywhere in Turkey without running into cats, and Sanayi is no exception.
Sanayi 1-A doesn’t offer food other than crisps and nuts, but doesn’t at all mind if you pick up some food from the nearby food truck offering köfte and chips, or order from one of the many food delivery services.
On the following day I visited the Maslak Sanayi 1-A again to meet friends (current and former Sanayi staff) and finished the afternoon with a bottle share of two different years of Efes annual Grape Ale (8%). It’s particularly good, especially considering it’s from a macro brewer.
All in all a great trip, returning to my favourite spots in the city and finding time to ride a few ferries and visit excellent coffee shops, while catching up with friends.
As part of the celebration of a significant birthday I decided to return to Brussels for the “Belgium Beer Weekend”, an annual beer festival that happens in the Grand-Place Brussels.
I had been to the event over ten years ago, and had visited many of the classic brussels beer venues (Cantillon Brewery, Au Bon Vieux Temps etc). This time I was armed with a long list of venues from Dan and Martha at Saint Mars of the Desert, and Eurostar tickets for my Wife and I.
We arrived early Friday evening and first had a delightful seafood meal at “L’Océan” where you select your own fresh fish from a wide range on display, and they then cook it for you. Next on to the bars!
We had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in, so went round the corner to GIST. This is a modern feeling craft beer style bar, with outdoor seating in a square. Its beer list was almost all new to us, but for a first drink we played it safe with a 5% Pils and 6% Hoppy blond. The outdoor bar experience on a warm evening watching the world go by is something not to miss when you get the chance.
Around the next corner was La Porte Noire, which from the outside didn’t promise much, but is a proper cellar bar, with an arched roof and exposed brickwork, and a more traditional Belgium beer list, draft and bottles. For a couple of old rock fans the hook was the music being played all evening, a mix of old and newer classics (Hendrix, Nirvana, Sabbath etc), such that it felt like a sophisticated return to our old Sheffield Wapentake Friday nights. Beers we had included Manneken Pils 6%, Val Dieu Blonde 6%, Barbar 8%, and Noir de Dottignies 8.5% all on draft. I need to mention the bar snacks, where a “portion de fromage” turns out to be enough bread and cheese to feed a family!. We ended up leaving after midnight, having wisely resisted the excellent whisky selection on offer.
Saturday drinking started with À La Mort Subite, the first Brussels bar I ever visited, and which again allowed us to sit outside in the sun. It offers draft Timmermans Faro, a style not seen in the UK very often, that has always appealed to my sweet tooth (do I need to mention the Chocolate shops in Belgium?). Next we tried A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, but sad to say it may be closed down for now.
So round the corner to À la Bécasse, a classic old Belgium bar, where I very much enjoyed the draft Bourgogne Des Flandres 5%. Unfortunately a group of very noisy tourists turned up to the small bar, so we moved on.
After a stop for some of the belgium classic, Moules Frites, we had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in (can you notice a theme), so went round the corner to La Fleur en Papier Doré, a bar famous for its surrealist patrons. A shorter beer list on offer, but Stouterik was a nice change of pace, a 5% dry stout.
Next we went to Cafe Bebo on the way back to our hotel. It says a lot for the belgium beer scene that even an ordinary bar will offer an interesting beer list, so I tried a beer/brewery I’d not come across before Lutgarde IPA 6.5%, and La Chouffe blonde 8% for my wife. Even when we got back to the hotel bar we were able to have some classic Belgium beers, Leffe Blonde 6.6%, Karmeliet 8.4%, Chimay blue 9%.
Sunday afternoon, and time for the festival in the Grande Place. Over 50 breweries present, 500+ beers. A very modern festival, with no entrance fee, and all beer bought via a specific smart card you charged with money, and beer measures costed in “tokens” (2 euro each) taken by the brewer, including 1/2 tokens. In common with almost every bar you go to, the Belgium beer scene that insists you drink your beer in the correct glass, and this applied at the beer festival!!.
You were “charged” a deposit for the glass for every drink, which was put back on your card when you returned it. Alternatively if you liked the glass you could keep it for the cost of the deposit. We ended up keeping our favourites, from Barbar and Martha (for a gift). Highlights of the beers were Bruges Zot Bok 6.5%, Lupulus Hopera 6%, Vicaris Lino 6.5% (brewed with flax), Vicaris triple 8.5%, Barbar Rouge 8%.
The festival was busy but felt very relaxed, with children allowed in, and take your own food in if you wanted.
For a little peace on a Sunday evening we went to the quirky bar at Royal Puppet Theater Toone, which also has a quiet beer garden. It was perfect for avoiding the crowds, and siping a Bush Ambrée 12%.
On the way back we had to walk past the Poechenellekelder, as it had a queue to get in yet again. Finally we tried a random bar near our hotel, Meia-Bar Saint-Gilles and enjoyed St Hubertus Triple Ambre 7.2%.
For a nightcap in our room a bottle of Vleesmeester Brewery Black Pudding bourbon barrel aged impy stout 12% fit the bill, and for the first time in the weekend not in the correct glass.
I can highly recommend a beery trip to Brussels, for the Belgium Beer weekend festival or not, there’s always somewhere interesting just around the corner. I know I’ll return, if only to finish my list of venues, and finally get into Poechenellekelder.
Our vice chair Paul Manning and his wife Bev recently visited Japan and South Korea trying the local beer scene on their travels.
Our 18-day adventure started with a brief flight stopover in the UAE at the ultra-modern sand dune shaped Abu Dhabi airport where we had time to sample a pint of 1758 Belgium IPA but at £13 each, they were easily the most expensive of the trip.
After 16 hours total flying time we arrived in Narita airport and, after a 40-mile taxi transfer, reached the excellent Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, Tokyo which was to be our base for the first three nights. Fighting off the dreaded jetlag we headed out on a prearranged night-time beer and food tour round Shinjuku. Our tour group consisted off ourselves, three Americans, an Australian and our Japanese guide.
A great camaraderie ensued during the four-hour tour which consisted of stops at some great street food and beer stalls where the delights of fried chicken, dumplings and even raw horse meat were tried, washed down with copious amounts of the local beers – mainly Kirin and Asahi super dry lagers together with the local favourite, highball cocktail.
Shinjuku at night was like New York Times Square with neon lights, the famous 3D digital cat, a towering Godzilla and was crowded with people which wasn’t a surprise for the world’s most populated city where 34 million people live in the greater Tokyo conurbation. After a detour to a local Shinto shrine where we paid our respects, the tour finished in what could only be described as a dive bar and after more Kirin I tasted some snake infused liquor. It was basically a local Japanese whisky with a decapitated snake head occupying the bottle!
Having survived the horse meat and snake liquor our next two days were again on pre-booked tours of wider Tokyo and further afield. The city is an amazing metropolis but so safe and clean – no graffiti or litter in sight which contrasted wildly with home. We explored Tokyo far and wide on the first day visiting the emperor’s imperial palace, the royal Shinto shrine with hundreds of saki beer barrels, a trip to the top of the Skytree tower for amazing views and a trip round Tokyo bay.
Beer opportunities were a little limited, with some green matcha flavoured ale at lunch, followed by a dark Asahi pale at the tower summit and more Kirin on the boat. The 45th floor lounge bar in our hotel more than sufficed for a few more lagers and cocktails accompanying dinner with jaw dropping night-time city views.
The second day was bright and clear with the main highlight a visit to the snow-covered foothills of Mount Fuji which was out in her full glory (we were lucky as she is only seen out of cloud around 60 days a year). A cable car ride over a sulphur emitting dormant volcano and a pirate ship lake ride followed before another highlight being a super-fast return trip by bullet train to Tokyo. The ship had an excellent Gora Brewery Rising Sun IPA but our beer highlight was a visit to a Hitachino Brewing’s Nest Beer outlet just outside one of Tokyo train station’s numerous exits.
The craft beers were excellent at approximately £5 a pint, and we spent a good two hours sampling their Dai DaiAle 6% IPA, Amber Ale 6%, MikanSession IPA 4.5%, Nipponia 6% IPA, History 1602Pale Ale 5% and Espresso Stout 8%. I’d recommend seeking them out if ever in Tokyo.
The second part of our trip was a 12-night cruise down the east side of Japan onboard the cruise liner Celebrity Millennium. A great ship with attentive staff, great entertainment and food.
Onboard, craft beers were either bottled or canned and mostly American. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Goose Island IPA, Sam Adams Boston Lager, Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale wheat IPA, Guiness (on St Patrick’s Day) were all sampled together with some more interesting brews including 90 Minute IPA 9% imperial IPA from Dogfish Head Brewery, a Unibroue Brewery (Canada) La Fin du Monde 9% wheat beer and a Terrapin Beer (Georgia, US) Luau Krunkles IPA 6.5% passion fruit, orange and guava IPA.
While the East China Sea was at times rather rough, the weather was mostly dry if a little chilly. Our ports of call were varied with trips to more Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, castles, spectacular underground caves, and exquisite Japanese gardens mixed in with spectacular views over the cities of Okinawa, Kagoshima, Osaka, Kyoto in Japan, Jeju Island in South Korea and paddling in the Pacific Ocean in Shizuoka.
Of course, the alcohol side was satisfied by trips to a saki brewery factory and museum with an 18% saki beer purchased, Nanto brewery in Okinawa and a sweet potato shōchū 25% proof beer purchase in Kagoshima.
All in all, a spectacular trip with plenty of opportunities to sample Japanese culture, cities and the beer scene in Tokyo which is highly recommended.
In May last year I went on a short weekend break with friends to Wrocław, Poland to coincide with the Wrocławski Festiwal Dobrego Piwa, which translates as the Wrocław Good Beer Festival. Held over three days in late May or June each year. Last year was the 13th Festival held on 26-28 May.
The event took place on the concourse of the Tarczyński Arena, a football stadium in Wrocław built for the 2012 European Football Championship. It is indicative of the Polish love of cured meats that it is sponsored by a sausage company! Over 70 breweries from across Poland operated stands selling beers, ciders and meads direct to customers. Numerous stalls selling a variety of Polish savoury and sweet food options and a stage with live bands/DJs complemented the drink offerings.
Our plan was to attend the festival in the late afternoon and evenings and spend the rest of our time visiting some of the many nearby tourist attractions.
The historic city of Wrocław itself is located on the river Oder in the southwest of Poland. The German border is around 150 km West and the border with Czechia less than 75 km to the southwest. One of the popular landmarks in Wrocław is the market square in the old town. Here beneath the Old Town Hall is Piwnica Świdnicka one of the oldest restaurants in the world, open continuously since 1273. In front of the town hall we sampled some of their own beers from an outside portable bar. We then had a dark beer, Ciemne Piwo, at the nearby Spiz restaurant.
Friday morning day we drove out to the Stołowe Mountains National Park on the Czech border. Here we explored the unusual rock formations on this section of the “Table Mountains”. We then walked a few miles across into Czechia to small hostel to have refreshing glass of KrakonošCzech Pilsner.
That evening we headed to the beer festival sampling various beers including Attack of Fruitiness(Fruited Gose) from TankBusters, Sangriale(Fruit beer) from Pinta, and much needed plate of golanka, a Polish pork knuckle dish.
Saturday morning we headed over to Książ Castle. A very impressive 400 room castle, once home to the Hochbergs, one of the wealthiest European noble families. It is built in the Renaissance style with surrounding terraces and landscaped gardens. Despite is fairy tale looks however it has a dark past. In 1944 the castle was seized by the Nazis. Under SS supervision, a vast network of underground tunnels was dug below the castle using forced labour from a nearby concentration camp. Parts of these tunnels are now accessible to the public on guided tours.
After following the interesting audio guided tour around the castle, while waiting for our tunnel tour, we relaxed in the terraced gardens with a cheesecake washed down with a Książęce Cherry Ale.
In the evening we then made our way back to the beer festival. Beers sampled included a Podróż na wschód (Polish Session IPA) from Markowy brewery and a Berliner Weisse from Lobster brewery.
On Sunday we headed north to the town of Żagań. During World War II however, this was the German town of Sagan and home to the Stalag Luft III prison-of-war camp, made famous by the 1963 Hollywood film The Great Escape and also featuring in this year’s Hanks/Spielberg mini-series Masters of the Air. There is a visitor centre and museum, featuring a full-size reconstruction of Hut 104 from which the tunnel “Harry” was started. To the west of the site you can drive into the forest to the location of the North Compound used for British and Commonwealth POWs. Here are stone slabs marking the route of the “Harry” tunnel, memorials inscribed with the names and nations of the inmates and a reconstructed guard tower giving views across the site, where the foundations of the various buildings can be seen.
In the evening, we headed back into Wroclaw to see the multimedia fountains (one of the largest displays in Europe) at Szczytnicki Park near the UNESCO World Heritage Centenary Hall.
On the final day we visited various outdoor drinking locations in town, including a bar on a riverside floating pontoon. In the evening, we went to the Solidarity themed restaurant Konspira. Here we enjoyed some regional Polish dishes, washed down with some Polish cider, seated in the back of a jeep located in the venue’s courtyard.
This was my second visit to Wrocław, and I would certainly recommend it as European weekend break location. This year’s festival is from Fri 21 – Sun 23 June 2024.
Having been a regular visitor to India in the decade leading up to the plague, this was my first trip since that forced hiatus. India had never had a big beer culture (or at least not since the days the British were stationed there) but brewpubs were just starting to appear when I first went in 2010. Many more were to spring up over the next few years but very much concentrated in a few cities like Delhi and Bengaluru, and beer quality generally ranged from average to homebrew (with the honourable exception of Arbor in Bengaluru, an offspring of the eponymous brewer in Michigan (and not related to the one in Brizzle!)). However, in the last few years brewpubs have started to spring up all over the place, and with the exception of the dry state of Gujarat I was able to find craft beer in almost every city I stayed. Unsurprisingly, Untappd and Ratebeer are very incomplete for India, but I found simply searching ‘craft beer’ on Google maps came up with the best results.
As with previous trips, I had an ‘open jaw’ flight (in this case out to Mumbai, back from Delhi) and used trains to get between cities, generally paying around a tenner for an overnight journey in air-conditioned sleeper class. Local travel during the day was a mix of local trains costing 20-50p a trip, Uber (half hour ride from the airport costing the princely sum of £3), and autorickshaws costing between 50p and 2 quid a trip. Decent hotels were generally under £20 a room, food is cheap and contrary to stereotype perfectly safe if you follow Rule 1 – watch it being cooked fresh in front of you. In fact the only thing that isn’t cheap is craft beer! As with many cheap countries, craft beer isn’t noticeably cheaper than here, with a 300ml glass being £2 at the cheapest place I went and £4 at the most expensive.
Although I landed in Mumbai I didn’t plan to spend much time there (been before, and it’s humid as hell), so just the one bar before heading north, namely Doolally Taproom, an outlet for the eponymous brewery on the outskirts of Mumbai. A small bar, with lovely air conditioning, six beers were on offer plus a cider and a mead. I opted for the ‘flight’, six 100ml glasses for a bit under a tenner, along with some spicy masala topped chips with dips. The coffee and orange mead was really interesting, the beers were all decent if not exciting, the oat stout probably being the pick. From here we took a train to Anand for the overnight journey to Veraval.
Being as the next two days were in Gujarat there’s not much to report for a beer magazine, so I’ll skip ahead to Rajasthan…
I last visited Jodhpur in 2010, and was only really passing through this time, but had long enough to visit 4 Brothers brewpub. The brewery and restaurant are on the ground floor, but we were directed to the ‘sky bar’, though really it was just an upstairs room with a glass front.
Beers were a bit different from the ‘usual’ Indian brewpub offerings, with mango wheat, a strawberry ale and a rose wheat!
I spent three nights in Ludhiana (carefully planned mid-trip so I’d be able to avail of the hotel laundry service, halving the amount of clothes I needed to carry round), which happens to have three brewpubs all five minutes’ walk apart. First up was Underdoggs, a sports bar (no prize for guessing which sport was on, especially as it was the World Cup!). I tried the surprisingly refreshing Masala Saison and the German Wheat, there were also a lager and a cider.
Just down the road is Brew Estate, part of a small chain of brewpubs, on this occasion offering their ‘house’ lager and a German style Bock. The cricket was on here too.
Finally, round the corner was Brew Haus, which wasn’t showing the cricket but from the rooftop bar one could watch on a huge screen in the square. The beers were Gabru, a pale lager, and dark lager Boxer. Both very German in style, fairly sweet and a slight biscuity finish.
From here I popped over the Haryana state line to Ambala, where I visited Pyramid brewpub. Inside it was much the same as most of the other places, dimly lit and large screens showing the cricket. I picked the Belgian Wheat (well the Scottish Ale was off and the lager was, well, lager).
Back in Punjab the train took me to Bathinda, where I visited The Brewery Club, which has the brewery on the ground floor, a restaurant upstairs and a bar downstairs, though food is also served at the latter, and I had an egg curry with jeera rice. Beers were a German Ale, a German Lager, a Belgian wit and a dark lager. These were by far the cheapest beers of the trip, but were as good as any of the other brewpubs I tried in Punjab. The menu somewhat bizarrely referred to both 350ml and 550ml measures as ‘British Pint’!
*Tourism interlude* While in Punjab I decided it would be rude not to visit the Golden Temple at Amritsar, I took an autorickshaw from the station to near the temple then walked the rest of the way, which was slow progress as I got stuck in traffic despite being on foot! The narrow alleys are totally unsuited to motor traffic, but that doesn’t stop people driving autorickshaws down them, completely clogging the way. Once at the temple I checked in my boots, receiving a metal token in return, I then had to buy some loose-fitting trousers as shorts are not allowed inside, and finally was loaned a patka (head covering). I spent a good while exploring the temple, though at the risk of losing my Yorkshire green card I passed up the opportunity of a free meal at the langar as the queue was too long – well they do serve 100,000 meals a day!
Once I finished at the temple, binned the trousers and retrieved my boots I took an autorickshaw across town to a little cluster of craft bars, starting with the most familiar, Brewdog. Obviously I eschewed their own wares in favour of the local guests… inside it was like any Brewdog bar anywhere in the world, and was quite empty at the time I went. I had an excellent mango wheat and a decent IPA from Mobster brewery, and from Brew Nut a stout.
From here it was a short stroll to Beer Story, a small bar with just one craft beer among the Kingfisher etc, Beach Beauty Pilsner from Aquarian brewery.
Round the corner on the second floor of a shopping centre is Egyptian Brewery, another brewpub, offering light and strong versions of lager. At this point my internet connection randomly cut out, thankfully after I’d ordered my Uber back to the station and my final overnight train of the trip.
As with Mumbai I’d given myself little time in Delhi, as it has featured in almost all my Indian trips so far. There are a handful of brewpubs and craft bars in central Delhi, but the district of Gurgaon has loads, however I’m pretty sure not all the brewpubs actually brew – in particular there’s a square which had three brewpubs when I went and grew to at least nine, but all with suspiciously similar beer range! For my trip swansong I opted for Fort City Brewing in New Delhi, a modern brewpub seemingly popular with Indians and westerners alike. I worked my way through most of the beers, ignoring only the lagers, accompanied by a pulled duck burger for a bit of a change from spicy food three times a day (not that I was complaining!). The beers were definitely the best (and most expensive!) of the trip, including a dunkelweizen, a stout, a NEIPA and a berry witbier.
After that it just remained to get a £2.60 Uber for the half hour drive to the airport, exchange my online boarding card for a printed one (the airport procedures have got a lot smoother since that first trip when we queued an hour just to get in the building, but they still like to stamp the boarding card at the check-in desk, at passport control and at security control), fly overnight to Munchen and on to Brum, then a train back to Sheffield that made me wonder if I was still in India, taking 45 minutes to get from Birmingham International to New St and then absolutely crush loaded from there to Sheffield…
Once back at Sheffield station it was just a 15 minute walk home, or would have been had I not gone via Rutland Arms, Head of Steam, Vocation, Brewdog, Crow and Lost in West Bar. By that stage I was too tired to go to Shakespeare so just took a Bolt home and ordered a curry…
After a considerable delay, I recently celebrated a significant birthday in Bruges. The first visit since 2019. A Eurostar deal gave us with an excellent ‘room with a view’ – top floor at Martin’s Bruges, a few hundred metres from the Belfort, a short walk from both Brugs Beertje and De Garre.
The main focus of the weekend was the 16th Bruges Beer Festival. Located at the recently completed, Meeting & Convention Centre, this saw some 80 breweries providing over 500 beers. Included were 16 breweries new to this festival, including the, perhaps inappropriately named, Misery Co. – a reference to the Stephen King book. Their New England IPA (6.9%) was one of several beers sampled from the 12.5 cl customised glass. Among many highlights was the first appearance of Terrest with their 8% Golden Triple, brewed with both grain and hops from the family farm at Houthulst. Also available was, the rarely seen, Westvleteren 12 (10.2%).
We had many conversations with other visitors – one memorable exchange was with the reserve mascot for Charleroi FC (‘the Zebras’). Sheffield, ‘the home of football’ was a common topic of conversation, a theme which has world-wide resonance, a theme which Sheffield should extensively utilise.
We also visited several bars, some return visits, but also new experiences: Halve Mann provided the (almost) obligatory Bruges Zot (the only bar which serves this 6% beer unfiltered from the tap), Bauhaus gave us Brussels Beer Project Juice Junkie (5.4%) while old favourite, St. Bernardus 12 (10%), was sampled at Yesterday’s World. The latter is a quirky bar, or, more accurately, a two-floor antiques shop which serves a selection of beers: well worth a visit.
After sampling the excellent camerise sour, Cantillon Sang Bleu (6%), we were about to leave Brugs Beertje when De Struise Black Damnation XXVI (‘Freddy’), an excellent, but rarely seen barrel-aged Belgian Royal Stout, appeared on the bar. This 13% beer is an epic, not to be missed. Suffice to say, our visit to De Garre, and their 11% house tripel, was slightly delayed.
Fort Lapin Brewery was also visited on their Saturday tap day. Since my last visit, the brewery has expanded (four new fermentation vessels). In November, they are relocating to a nearby industrial estate in order to gain more space. Their 8% Triple was a good start to the day. Good to hear that the elder son of the owners, Tristan Vandenbussche, is now a sprint canoe European Champion.
In short, Bruges provided a much-needed break, good company, good bars and good beer.
A fabulous trip to New Zealand by our vice chairman Paul and his wife Bev.
We started on Harvey’s brewery IPA at the Hilton Heathrow Terminal 2 with some great runway views. Singapore airlines took us to Auckland via a lengthy stop at Singapore due to cyclone Gabrielle but time for a few beers including Archipelago brewery’s Summer IPA.
Auckland was very blowy but our 1 night stay allowed samplings of Emerson’s Hazed and Confused IPA and an excellent Black Duck dark ale from Hawkes bay together with Tuatara hazy pale ale and Speights gold medal ale.
We moved onto Mount Manganui for a 6 night stay for the first test. A lovely sunny and hot seaside resort. Canned beers included Puha road IPA and the Island’s Dawn Daze IPA.
We enjoyed hospitality at the cricket, met England legends Mike Gatting and Gladstone Small. It meant all our drinks were included with the beer offering being Boundary Road brewery’s Haze of our Lives Hazy IPA. An England win in 4 days allowed time for a spectacular wild life boat trip.
We then flew to Wellington after a short visit to a Maori thermal village for a Haka ceremony. Wellington was different again being very hilly and windy. Trips to see the Pinnacles famous for the Lord of the Rings film trilogy and wine tasting at Martinborough a great little town set up by an English settler with streets in a Union Jack flag orientation. Many beers were sampled including Fortune Favours brewery Optimist and a bean to beer double chocolate stout.
A Wellington craft breweries tour started at Garage Project brewery for Pernicious weed (8% IPA) and Garagista (5.8% bitter). Next stop was Baylands brewery taproom for a taster flight of Esplanade, Woodrow Vero, Rail Slider and Hop Enforcer. Highlight was then a visit to Brewtown in Upper Hutt. This was a craft brewery Mecca in an old Dunlop tyre factory with numerous breweries including Panhead and Boneface . More taster flights followed with a favourite being Unf*ck the world 8% double IPA.
The second test match was very exciting but England lost by just 1 run. We drowned our sorrows in a great little dive bar sampling Wired Wireless brewery’s Black IPA, Garage Projects Leeds street rye ale and a Birdseye hazy IPA from Parrot Dog brewery.
A super trip for the beer and cricket with many fabulous memories.
