Category: Travel

March 2018 saw the 34th and final London Drinker Beer Festival, held in the Camden Centre which is very convenient for both St. Pancras and King’s Cross stations. Advance train tickets were booked, but again the cheapest route was via the non-stop Grand Central train from Doncaster to King’s Cross rather than East Midland Trains from Sheffield to St. Pancras. Arriving in London I went straight to the venue to join the queue, even though opening was still about an hour away and I was not the first. The time passed fairly quickly with only a brief rain shower to contend with. The festival was very popular and now served beers only from London breweries. I sampled halves of cask beer from House, Gorgeous, Spartan, Alphabeta, Reunion and Thames Side. Lunchtime closing was at 2.30pm which then allowed plenty of time for a wander around Highbury and Islington.

I decided on visiting the further pub first which was the Brewhouse and Kitchen at Highbury (CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2018). Three of their own cask ales were sampled here: Romford Pele, Uncertainty and Tramshed. Retracing my steps I visited the New Rose on Essex Road (GBG 2018), which I would describe as a multi roomed basic traditional boozer of a type all too rare these days. Five hand pumps were in use and I sampled beers from Truman’s and New River Brewery. Next was the Brewhouse and Kitchen at Islington. This was the busiest pub encountered today as by now the teatime drinking crowd had descended upon it. Anyway, another two of their in house brewed cask ales were tried, Myddleton Blonde Ale and Britton American Brown. Remember that Brewhouse & Kitchen pubs do give CAMRA discount. Onwards towards the Craft Beer Co, on White Lion Street (GBG 2018) and a very tasty, naturally cloudy, Park Killcat Pale Ale. Of their ten hand pumps, seven were in use today.

Heading back towards King’s Cross was the Scottish Stores. I was disappointed to find that only 3 of their 8 hand pumps were in use so to give them chance to put additional beers on I visited the Parcel Yard in King’s Cross station (GBG 2018). Here I sampled St Austell Cousin Jack, which at £2.43 a half for a 4% beer was one of the dearest of the day. Back to the Scottish Stores now but, sadly, still only 3 beers were available with no sign of any of the staff being willing to replace any of the beers that had gone. I had no time to go elsewhere so settled on a half of Portobello VPA. Changing trains in Doncaster allowed no time for a drink there, but on arriving in Sheffield a quick visit to the Bankers Draft provided a half of Greene King Heritage Suffolk Pale Ale from their festival list. At £1.10 for a 5% beer, this was by far the cheapest beer sampled all day. Andy Morton

The first weekday train on which a Derbyshire Wayfarer is valid gets to Derby just before 10am. There was a short wait for a ten-minute ride to Burton and then a walk in to town for the hourly Midland Classic service X12 to Sutton Coldfield. An Allday+ ticket costs £5.30 for unlimited travel on Midland Classic buses. An hour’s bus ride later we arrive in Sutton Coldfield town centre. A short walk through the pedestrianised area brings you to the Brewhouse & Kitchen brewpub on Birmingham Road. From the four own-brewed beers that were available I selected the Cup Session Bitter (3.6%) and a very refreshing Festive Fury Cask Pilsner (5%). Virtually next door is a Wetherspoons called The Bottle of Sack. Amongst the hand pulls three Beowulf Brewery beers were available and I chose their Double Decade (4.3%) at a very reasonable £1 a half. Back to the bus stop now for the hourly X12 service to Lichfield, midway between Sutton Coldfield and Burton. Alighting at the bus station, the Guildhall is only a few minutes walk away and this was the location for the Guildhall Arts Winter Beer Festival. A small, cosy affair with about 30 beers on gravity and 5 traditional ciders, situated in this Grade II listed property. When I arrived the festival was already well attended. Four halves were sampled from Tamworth Brewing Company, Box Steam, Backyard and Falstaff breweries. Lichfield is quite a compact place and there are several pubs within easy walking distance. First up was the Angel Inn, with plenty of wood panelling and partitions. It is in the long and narrow style nestled between shops on Market Street. Joule’s Brewery beers and guests were available and a choice of hot and cold snacks. I selected Joule’s Old No. 6 Winter Warmer (4.8%), Stockport Yuletide Blonde (4.2%) and a hot sausage roll. Close by are two more pubs next to each other on Tamworth Street. The Beerbohm (CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2018) had six tables upstairs and a similar number downstairs. From the four beers available I chose Ossett Evolution (4.0%). Next door is the smaller Whippet Inn (GBG 2018 entry), again with four hand pumps. I selected Fixed Wheel Domestique (4.5%), an Australian pale. A visit to another Wetherspoons pub followed, being the Acorn Inn where Slaters Ultra (3.7%) was imbibed. In Bird Street, the second Brewhouse & Kitchen brewpub of the day provided their Lunartic Red Rye Ale (4.7%). The Staffordshire CAMRA Pub of the Year 2017 is the Horse & Jockey (GBG 2018 entry) on Sandford Street. A bustling and popular place with 8 handpumps – my selection being one from Dancing Duck Brewery. My last stop in Lichfield was the Bitter Suite, a fairly new micro pub on St. John Street, near the bus station.  This offered table service with ales sold on gravity. Mallinsons Sorachi Noir (4.0%) was chosen. There are other pubs in Lichfield not visited today and with many so close together, it is certainly worthy of another trip. Onto the penultimate X12 back to Burton and just time for a quick Brecon Red Beacons (5.0%) in the Lord Burton Wetherspoons before the train back to Sheffield, changing in Derby. The regular visit to the Old Queen’s Head en route to the bus provided a half of Thwaites Dark Nights (3.0%). With still a few minutes to spare and the Bankers Draft nearby, a quick half of Peerless Lottie Dod Sporting Hero (4.2%) amber ale rounded off the day. Andy Morton

A planned busy day out using the Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket started with a train to Derby and a bus into Derby Bus Station. A Trent Barton service 6.3 took me to Belper in time for the noon opening of the 8^th Amber Valley Beer Festival at Strutts, a former school, now a community facility. Numerous rooms and corridors are available for seating and the beer is racked in a separate marquee outside. A pleasant couple of hours was spent here sampling cask ales from Raw, Twisted Barrel, Marble, White Horse, Pentrich and the very tasty and naturally very cloudy Vale of Glamorgan Miami Weiss at 4.5%. The hourly Trent Barton 7.1 service took me to Holbrook to visit the three pubs there. On alighting from the bus the nearest pub was the Spotted Cow where Littleover Gold at 3.8% and Falstaff Halifax Slasher (4%) were tried from the six hand pulled beers available. This pub combined an old world feel with some alcove seating but with modern overtones. A Macmillan Coffee Morning was still in progress so a nice slice of homemade lemon drizzle cake accompanied the beer. A short walk then to the Dead Poets Inn, with its stone floors, low beams and more alcove seating. Six hand pulled beers were available and three from the barrel. I sampled a half of Welbeck Abbey Duck Decoy (4.6%). Another short walk to the Wheel Inn where one could relax in some lounge style seating while enjoying an Oakham Citra (4.2%) from the range available. The Yourbus 138 and Trent Barton 7.1 services took me to Openwoodgate and the Black Bull’s Head (CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2018 entry) for some Leatherbritches Lemongrass & Ginger (3.8%) from the nine hand pulls available. Wooden floors and panelling abounded around the central island bar serving two distinct areas. At weekends another 4 beers were available on gravity as well as 5 traditional ciders in the outside converted stables known as the Bedlam Bar. I had a half of Timothy Taylor’s Boltmaker (4.0%). Back on the 7.1 into Belper and the Angels Micro Pub (GBG 2018) at the top of the Market Place. A small split-level micro with half a dozen tables and offering eight beers on gravity. Brunswick White Feather (3.6%) was sampled. Back down the hill towards the station and the nearby Arkwright’s Real Ale Bar (GBG 2018), a slightly larger micro-bar. I had the Market Harborough Super-hop Mosaic (4.3%) and Slater’s Maravilla (4.5%). A short walk to the Trent Barton bus garage for a somewhat delayed service back to Derby and the train home. Walking passed the Old Queens Head in Sheffield allowed for a half of Abbeydale Salvation No.5 Coffee & Doughnut Stout (5.8%) to finish the day off nicely, and all on a Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket. Andy Morton

Catching the first available weekday train service from Sheffield to Derby using a Derbyshire Wayfarer allowed for a few minutes in Derby before boarding a train bound for Burton. On arrival there it was a ten minute walk in to town to catch the Midland Classic service X12 to Lichfield. A slight hold-up on the A38 meant I missed the Arriva service 60 from Lichfield to Cannock, and had to make do with a scenic but slower number 62 bus to Cannock instead. When I arrived at Cannock Beer Festival in the Prince of Wales Theatre it was nicely busy and with many of the seats taken I chose to stand at the bar, although there was still some seating available. This was a smallish festival of about 60 beers, plenty of them locally brewed. I had cask ales from Kinver, Davenports, Beowulf, Vine and Ironstone breweries plus two from Franklins and Lodden. There was a very friendly and welcoming atmosphere and mention must be made of the food that was available, which comprised curry, chilli con carne and chilli scotch eggs amongst other things, at very reasonable prices. I allowed myself plenty of time for the ten minute walk back to the station to ensure I caught the service 60 back to Lichfield.  The stop before Lichfield Bus Station drops you conveniently outside the Brewhouse & Kitchen.  I sampled two halves of their in-house brewed beers here, an Oktoberfest Amber Cask Lager (5.5%) and the Spellman Sam (4.4%). The quality was good and a CAMRA discount was available. After a short stop here I caught the X12 back to Burton. Rush hour buses drop you slightly nearer to the rail station so a quick dash was made to catch the next train into Derby. Another bus took me to Derby Bus Station for a late-running Trent Barton Swift service to Ashbourne.  Ashbourne Beer Festival, held in the town hall, is another small and fairly intimate festival offering around 40 cask ales plus some cider.  From the cask beer list I chose beers from Leatherbritches, Burton Town, Bartrams and two from Caveman Brewery before another late running Swift service back to Derby and the train home.  There was just time to drop into the Sheffield Tap for a very nice Northern Whisper Beltie Stout before the bus home. Andy Morton

I’ve just returned from 6 weeks travelling around East Asia. After landing in Tokyo I travelled the west of Japan for two weeks before flying to Busan in South Korea to continue my exploring. After a strenuous start climbing Mount Fuji I dedicated the rest of my holiday to sampling all the local delights and of course the beers. One of the first stops on my adventure was the Japanese city of Matsumoto – famous for its five-tiered castle (and being home to the best Indian restaurant in Japan!). A highlight of the city was a visit to their local brewery. The range of beers at the Matsumoto Brewery were not too dissimilar to what I would expect to see in any Yorkshire pub! Their range included a Castle Stout, Pure Blonde, Smart Wheat and a Traditional Bitter. I opted for their Awesome Pale Ale, and was pleasantly surprised with how hoppy it was in comparison to British pales. After travelling to South Korea, I ventured up the west coast to Daegu where I attended the Chimac festival, the national festival of chicken and beer. It was here I discovered Somaek. Somaek was lethal. It involved using the national lagers Cass and Hite as mixers for Soju, a strong rice wine. Rarely drunk for its taste and well known for getting you intoxicated quickly there’s no more explanation needed as to how this evening progressed! Venturing further north I eventually reached Seoul, the final destination in my travels. Seoul had a surprisingly vibrant beer drinking culture. Upon recommendations from other travellers I visited Itaewon an area of town that housed what the locals refer to as craft beer valley. I was surprised by not only the range of beers but also the range of establishments: pubs, microbreweries, tap houses and bars. Also notable was the balance struck between local and import beers. I found myself jumping between Korean brewed IPAs and bottles of Brewdog and Thornbridge. The craft beer valley was a definite highlight in terms of beer and I happily spent a day meandering in and out of the bars sampling over 12 different beers as well as local street food. Toby Hayhurst

Being a Bank Holiday weekend, a more local day out was planned with the intention of doing a few pubs around the Chesterfield area and then stopping off in Mosborough on the way home. With the exception of the last port of call, all were visited by using a Stagecoach Explorer ticket costing £6.30 from the driver of the first bus caught. Catching the service 70 from near the Halfway Supertram terminus there followed a quite enjoyable journey through Eckington, Renishaw, Staveley and Brimington before arriving in Chesterfield at about 10.45. A quick change of buses was needed for the 20-or-so minute ride to the Arkwright Arms at Sutton cum Duckmanton (a CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2017 entry). Here, all 18 hand pumps were in use for their Bank Holiday Beer Festival, which this year was featuring Derbyshire breweries. I sampled halves from Dancing Duck, Whim, Amber Ales and Landlocked breweries, but the pick was a very black, smooth and easy drinking Ashover Brewery 10th Anniversary Raspberry Stout at 8.5%. Buses to and from this large and imposing Tudor-fronted free house are frequent and convenient. Back in Chesterfield and a walk through the Market Place to the somewhat smaller micro bar by the name of the Chesterfield Alehouse (GBG 2017 entry). This weekend the 6 hand pumps were dispensing beers from Brinkburn Street and Three Kings breweries. I sample Canny Sculler 11 (3.8%) from the former and Billy Mill (4.0%) and Silver Darling (5.6%) from the latter. A short journey then, courtesy of service 50, to Whittington Moor and the Beer Parlour (another GBG 2017 entry). Although only just having opened at 4pm, there was already a steady trade and from the 8 cask ales available I sampled King Clipstone King John EPA (4.4%) and Jolly Collier Porter (5.0%). The porter was another good example of the style with dark beers certainly taking the edge so far today. Just around the corner is the Derby Tup, now operated by Pigeon Fishers Brewery and I sampled their own House Pale at 3.8%, which was a nice contrast to the previous porter, before getting on board another service 50 to Mosborough. First stop was the George & Dragon which offered three ales, from which I chose Timothy Taylor’s Golden Best (3.5%). Next up was the Alma. They offer one cask ale which recently was Bombardier, but today it was Sharp’s Doom Bar (4.0%). The third Mosborough pub visited was the Queen Hotel, whose sole cask offering was Marston’s EPA (3.6%). Last up in Mosborough was the British Oak, which is now a True North Brewery run pub. My choice was Dark Star American Pale Ale (4.7%). Another journey on Service 50 followed by a short tram ride and a short walk took me to the New Inn in Gleadless. From a range of 8 cask ales I chose Welbeck Abbey’s Sleeping Beauty (5.3%), which was clean, crisp and dry and a fitting way to end the day. Andrew Morton

A spell of particularly clement weather during a recent trip home to visit family offered the perfect opportunity to sample some of the pubs under the remit of the East Lancashire branch of CAMRA. The trains weren’t running for some reason so we caught the rail-replacement bus to Colne at the end of the East Lancashire Line. Colne is known locally as “The Town on the Hill” and with good reason, but fortunately there were plenty of pub stops so we never had to walk too far at any one time! First off, we called in the Crown Hotel just outside the railway station. The pub usually offers four real ales, including ones from local breweries such as Moorhouse’s, but on the day only John Smith’s Cask (3.8%) was available, which was a bit of a shame. Nevertheless, the beer was well-kept and palatable enough. The next stop was just across the road at the Venue, where I tried Worsthorne Packhorse (3.7%), a traditional English bitter brewed just down the road near Burnley. Our third stop of the afternoon took us to the newly opened Tubbs of Colne. When I was growing up this had always been a furniture shop, so it was something of a surprise to see the place in its new guise and we felt compelled to try it out. I was pleased to see three cask ales available and opted for Bowland Brewery’s Bowland Gold (3.8%), a hoppy and zesty golden bitter that was very refreshing on a summer’s day. We deviated from the main road briefly for a stop at the Cask ‘n’ Keg micropub, which despite showcasing a fantastic selection of all styles of beer was surprisingly quiet for a Saturday afternoon. Here I sampled another locally brewed ale, Reedley Hallows Griffin IPA (4.7%), a really well-balanced IPA and my favourite beer of the day. I would definitely recommend this pub if you are ever in the area. Back on to the main road, we headed to the Wallace Hartley, a Wetherspoon’s pub named after the bandleader of the Titanic who hailed from Colne. The craft cider festival was taking place so I tried a half of Mr Whitehead’s Toffee Apple Cider (4.0%), which was drinkable but a little too sweet for my taste. My sojourn into cider territory was short-lived and before leaving I ordered a pint of Peerless Tectonic (6.2%), a dry-hopped golden ale with an intense, almost peaty, flavour that I couldn’t decide whether I loved or hated. Our final pub of the afternoon was the Duke of Lancaster at the top of the hill, where I tasted Moorhouse’s White Witch (3.9%) and Lancaster Blonde (4.0%) before heading home. One thing I did notice on the day was that the drinkers of East Lancashire seem to have a penchant for golden ales, which were available in nearly every pub we visited and were often the only option. Overall, Colne proved an enjoyable day out and it was encouraging to see local breweries featuring so prominently on the pumps. Dominic Nelson

Today’s main intention was to visit Wigan Central, located in two arches beneath Wigan North Western rail station. Arriving in Manchester my plan was to use the buses, rather than the trains, to get around so I purchased a Greater Manchester Any Bus Day Rover ticket, which is available from any bus driver, for £5.60. The first leg of the journey was to take the First Bus service V1/V2 via both the East Lancs Road with its designated bus lanes and the Guided Busway to Atherton and then on to Leigh. Once there another bus was required to get to Wigan. Not the quickest journey to Wigan, but still pleasant enough. Arriving at the festival at Wigan Central around 12:15, the festival bar had been set up in the adjoining arch to the main bar. The pub is in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2017 and is owed by Prospect Brewery. Outdoor seating was also available at the front and the pub was very light and airy. Beers sampled were from Chapter, Manchester Brewing Co, Vibrant Forest, Abstract Jungle, Shiny and Northern Monk. I also tried a very distinctive and opaque Cucumber and Juniper Saison keg beer (version 01/03) from Brew By Numbers Brewery. After a pleasant stay here a short walk took me to the Tap ‘n’ Barrel micro-style bar (GBG 2017 listed), a long and narrow pub with a pleasant beer garden out back. Five Martland Mill beers were available and I sampled the D-Day Dodger (4.1%) and a very smooth and tasty Arctic Convoy (4.5%), a chocolate oatmeal stout. A quick walk back to the bus station to enquire about buses back to Leigh found the information centre just closing at 4pm – obviously people don’t stay out late in Wigan! Anyway, a bus was found and half an hour later we arrived back in Leigh. A short walk to the White Lion (GBG 2017 listed), a cracking Allgates Brewery traditional boozer that I have reported on before. Here I sampled their own Industrious Bee (3.8%) and Green Mill Gold (3.6%). Back now in to Manchester via the Guided Busway again. Only one pub visited here and that was the Café Beermoth near to the Arndale Centre. Being a Friday evening, the place was vibrant and a hive of activity but the service was very efficient. Beers here (both cask and keg) are served through a wall behind the bar, with the cellar also visible. Two Torrside cask ales were sampled – Awaiting Collection (4.0%) and Yellow Peak (4.2%) – very enjoyable. Back to Piccadilly station and the train home, but not before disembarking at Stockport. Just at the top of the station approach (Edgeley entrance) is the Olde Vic (GBG 2017 listed). Now a community-run pub, it looked closed as I approached it with no visible lights on, door closed and a boarded-up window. However, on entering there was the usual cheery hello and a quick half of Raw JR Best Bitter (4.2%), before catching the next train back to Sheffield. On the way for my bus home I stopped in the Old Queen’s Head in the hope of sampling one of Thwaites seasonal/monthly specials which are often available here, but not today. The pub now has six hand pumps, three were dispensing regular offerings from Thwaites and three were guest ales. The one I tried was Leeds Brewery Yorkshire Gold (4.0%). It would be a shame if the guest beers have replaced the more unusual beers brewed by Thwaites. Andrew Morton

A group of friends, including Liz and myself, hired a cottage in Westport for a week in May 2017. Our first port of call: a pub in Westport Quay, the “Helm Hotel”, where fresh Clew Bay Clams were washed down with pints of Guinness. Pubs in Ireland are renowned for their convivial atmosphere, friendly locals and the “craic” Irish expression of fun. In Westport Matt Molloy’s, named after and owned by the flautist from the Chieftains, is a must visit. In pubs in Ireland you place your order, bar staff start to pull your pint(s) then take orders from the next person, and the one after, then after a period return with your pint(s) perfect, no spillage, and then you pay. Some locals leave their wallets on the bar. Most of the pubs in Westport had musicians playing, some local, also from other areas in Ireland and from other countries. Walks included the wild Atlantic Coast and Croagh Patrick Ireland’s Holy Mountain.  The ascent of 2,510ft was very challenging; scree, boulders and a rough path (penitents often make the pilgrimage barefoot, we had boots on). The view from the summit was fantastic.  The descent was really difficult but as we walked across the car park, yes “Campbell’s Pub” alongside. We hired cycles and rode 42 km along the “Great Western Greenway”, which follows an old Railway Track from the Island of Achill to Westport Quay. It is fantastic trail, moorland, alongside lochs, views of mountains (including Croagh Patrick across the Bay), and wonderful café en route. A mini-bus to the start of the trail, on returning the cycles at Westport we were asked if we need transport to our accommodation,  we said no thank you but “can you recommend a really good pub?“ The young lady said the nearest of many was just across the road. We hired mini-buses to take our group to the start of walks and collect us at the end and travelled with Ryanair from East Midland Airport to Knock.  Thanks to Gerry for organising the trip. Glyn Mansell

The purpose of this month’s trip was to sample 3 previously unattended beer festivals in the Nuneaton and Leicester areas. A sunny and quite warm Saturday morning allowed for a nice steady trip to Nuneaton via Leicester and a leisurely stroll around Nuneaton open market before the noon opening of the 5^th Nuneaton and Bedworth CAMRA Beer Festival in the wonderfully air conditioned Co-Operative Hall in the city centre.  A fairly small affair but with plenty of seating and with around 30 beers on stillage. I sampled Church Farm IPA (5%), Stewart Brewing 80/- (4.4%), Byatts West Coast Baby (4.6%) and Charnwood Blue Fox (4.2%). Mention must be made here of the excellent hot dog sausages served with cooked and fairly hot red chillies. Whilst here the nearby Lord Hop (a CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2017 entry) micro pub was awarded its Warwickshire Pub of the year certificate.  Being only 50 yards from the festival venue I popped in on the way back to the station and had a half of Falstaff Curse of Omen Mild (3.8%). Changing trains back in Leicester was required for the seven-minute journey to Syston and the festival at the Syston & District Social Club, which is about a 10/15 walk from the station.  A stillage had been set up in a room at the back of the pub and one of the beers sampled here was 4T’s One Man 2 Sticks at 4.7%, recently brewed as a celebration of the life of Peter Collins.  Other ales sampled were Shakespeares Bard’s Best (4.2%), Buntingford Templar Gold (4.5%), Church End Gottle O’ Geer (4.2%) and AJ Ales IPA (4.6%). Catching the hourly service back to Leicester and a first visit to the Exchange for some Framework Centennial Wheat Beer (4.6%). After this a short walk brought me to the third festival of the day at the Broood (which is a sister pub to one of the same name in nearby Hinckley).  Here too a stillage had been set up in the pub, from which I sampled Hubsters Hop on the Good Foot (3.8%) and Greenodd Caskade (4.5%). On arrival back in Sheffield the final drink on what had been a very hot day was in the regular Old Queen’s Head where I sampled Thwaites Once Bitten, Twice Shy coconut pale ale (3.8%). Andrew Morton