My friends set off for Scarborough early Good Friday morning, but being a foolish football fan, I went to the game after booking a Northern train for the day after.
Saturday saw me rise at 03:30 to prepare and get the taxi for the 05:42 to Scarborough. The train was akin to a magical mystery tour, and my split ticket to Doncaster, then onwards took me through Goole, Beverley, Bridlington and Filey before arrival in Scarborough, but at least it was direct.
On arrival I went to my hotel the Palace Hill, a 260 year old listed building, just across from the Merchant. My friend and I had to leave the third person suffering from the previous night. One quick pint in the Golden Last saw a Beavertown Neck Oil on keg at 4.3%, as there was no cask. On arrival, the Spa Pavilion was already Filling up at 13:00.
Surprisingly for a punk festival, it had two real ales to its beer roster. I tried both, and they were well kept. The first was Wold Top Bitter, a very sessionable 3.7% from the Driffield based brewery. Second was the festival branded Scarborough Punk Festival IPA, a 4.2%, again brewed by Wold Top.
Awaking the next morning, and not with the first band I wanted to see until 16:40, I set out at 13:00 to have an ale adventure.
First stop was halfway down N Marine Road, where I had a well kept pint of Taylors Landlord, 4.3%, described as pale, but more a lighter bitter to me.
I then had a stroll round the North Bay before taking the open top bus to the South Bay. Alighting near the traffic lights near the Frigate, a lovely small real ale bar just up a small, steep cobbled street. I had a pint of Maxim Samson Bitter, a good, smooth bitter of 4%.
Next was the short walk to the Merchant, a lightly themed Irish bar, but with a nice WB Blonde on cask at 4%.
I then walked further up to the hill to Dickens, festooned with TVs and tourists. Theakston Summit, a bright, crisp 4.2% EPA was on offer, so that was partaken.
It was time to watch the bands again, so I strolled down past the Grand Hotel to the Spa Pavilion for a few more SPF IPAs. After a great four bands, we called in the Lord Nelson where a Theakston Best Bitter was drank for one more for the road.
The short hop to the hotel was uneventful. So all in all, somewhere I would like to revisit with two days to venture further afield to the bars I missed in Scarborough CAMRA’s recommendations.
With our entry of the Old Hall Hotel into the North Derbyshire regional entry round of the national Pub of the Year competition comes an obligation to judge the other entries in our region, from the Matlock, Chesterfield and Dronfield CAMRA branches. This was a fairly easy trip on the bus to do so we made an ad-hoc social of it.
A group of us met on the X17 bus from Sheffield to Matlock Green for our first pub of the day, the Red Lion, which is also home to Moot Ales. A range of their own beers plus guests were on the handpumps with an overall range of six cask ales available (seven were advertised but the Bass was unavailable).
Despite slightly windy conditions the sun was out and it was pleasant enough to take a walk into Matlock town centre and over the river bridge for a couple of bonus extra pubs – bod Matlock, Titanic Brewery’s café bar, where a little light lunch was enjoyed, before a further cheeky half a few doors down in the Twenty Ten bar, the Matlock branch award winner last year!
Back on the X17 next, to Chesterfield, followed by a bit of a walk (some of our party regretted not waiting for a connecting bus!) up to Brampton to visit the Rose & Crown. The main part of the pub was packed and the outdoor drinking areas were fairly busy for the time of year too, however the snug room was empty so we made ourselves comfy in there and enjoyed a couple of well kept ales from a fairly extensive choice served by staff who were friendly and helpful despite being busy.
Lessons were learned and we caught a bus from Brampton back into Chesterfield town centre in order to catch the 44 bus up to Coal Aston to visit the final pub to be judged, the Cross Daggers. This is a traditional community local which only opens in the evening and at around 6pm on Saturday when we arrived was packed with a great atmosphere, we were lucky and managed to squeeze in on an empty table!
The beer range wasn’t as exotic as the other pubs we’d visited – Tetley Bitter, Adnams Broadside, Timothy Taylor Landlord and a Drone Valley beer providing the LocAle representation – however all the beers tried were in immaculate condition and served by efficient staff.
Having visited all three pubs we were required to judge a good number of the party headed home from here, however a couple of us jumped in a taxi for the short trip down the hill into Dronfield and enjoyed an excellent pizza at the Dronfield Arms (which is also home to Temper Brewing) and saw a band performing at the Green Dragon before boarding a 43 bus back to Sheffield.
Bus X17 runs limited stop between Sheffield, Chesterfield and Matlock every 30 minutes Monday to Saturday daytime and hourly on Sundays. Bus 44 runs from Sheffield to Chesterfield via Coal Aston and Dronfield hourly in the daytime and every 2 hours in the evening. A Derbyshire Wayfarer pass for all buses in Derbyshire (including direct buses from Sheffield to/from Derbyshire) costs £8 for the day or single fares are currently capped at just £2 per ride.Check out more details of the pubs at whatpub.com.
In May last year I went on a short weekend break with friends to Wrocław, Poland to coincide with the Wrocławski Festiwal Dobrego Piwa, which translates as the Wrocław Good Beer Festival. Held over three days in late May or June each year. Last year was the 13th Festival held on 26-28 May.
The event took place on the concourse of the Tarczyński Arena, a football stadium in Wrocław built for the 2012 European Football Championship. It is indicative of the Polish love of cured meats that it is sponsored by a sausage company! Over 70 breweries from across Poland operated stands selling beers, ciders and meads direct to customers. Numerous stalls selling a variety of Polish savoury and sweet food options and a stage with live bands/DJs complemented the drink offerings.
Our plan was to attend the festival in the late afternoon and evenings and spend the rest of our time visiting some of the many nearby tourist attractions.
The historic city of Wrocław itself is located on the river Oder in the southwest of Poland. The German border is around 150 km West and the border with Czechia less than 75 km to the southwest. One of the popular landmarks in Wrocław is the market square in the old town. Here beneath the Old Town Hall is Piwnica Świdnicka one of the oldest restaurants in the world, open continuously since 1273. In front of the town hall we sampled some of their own beers from an outside portable bar. We then had a dark beer, Ciemne Piwo, at the nearby Spiz restaurant.
Friday morning day we drove out to the Stołowe Mountains National Park on the Czech border. Here we explored the unusual rock formations on this section of the “Table Mountains”. We then walked a few miles across into Czechia to small hostel to have refreshing glass of KrakonošCzech Pilsner.
That evening we headed to the beer festival sampling various beers including Attack of Fruitiness(Fruited Gose) from TankBusters, Sangriale(Fruit beer) from Pinta, and much needed plate of golanka, a Polish pork knuckle dish.
Saturday morning we headed over to Książ Castle. A very impressive 400 room castle, once home to the Hochbergs, one of the wealthiest European noble families. It is built in the Renaissance style with surrounding terraces and landscaped gardens. Despite is fairy tale looks however it has a dark past. In 1944 the castle was seized by the Nazis. Under SS supervision, a vast network of underground tunnels was dug below the castle using forced labour from a nearby concentration camp. Parts of these tunnels are now accessible to the public on guided tours.
After following the interesting audio guided tour around the castle, while waiting for our tunnel tour, we relaxed in the terraced gardens with a cheesecake washed down with a Książęce Cherry Ale.
In the evening we then made our way back to the beer festival. Beers sampled included a Podróż na wschód (Polish Session IPA) from Markowy brewery and a Berliner Weisse from Lobster brewery.
On Sunday we headed north to the town of Żagań. During World War II however, this was the German town of Sagan and home to the Stalag Luft III prison-of-war camp, made famous by the 1963 Hollywood film The Great Escape and also featuring in this year’s Hanks/Spielberg mini-series Masters of the Air. There is a visitor centre and museum, featuring a full-size reconstruction of Hut 104 from which the tunnel “Harry” was started. To the west of the site you can drive into the forest to the location of the North Compound used for British and Commonwealth POWs. Here are stone slabs marking the route of the “Harry” tunnel, memorials inscribed with the names and nations of the inmates and a reconstructed guard tower giving views across the site, where the foundations of the various buildings can be seen.
In the evening, we headed back into Wroclaw to see the multimedia fountains (one of the largest displays in Europe) at Szczytnicki Park near the UNESCO World Heritage Centenary Hall.
On the final day we visited various outdoor drinking locations in town, including a bar on a riverside floating pontoon. In the evening, we went to the Solidarity themed restaurant Konspira. Here we enjoyed some regional Polish dishes, washed down with some Polish cider, seated in the back of a jeep located in the venue’s courtyard.
This was my second visit to Wrocław, and I would certainly recommend it as European weekend break location. This year’s festival is from Fri 21 – Sun 23 June 2024.
Barnsley, a town I had not visited for decades, in fact not since racing my cycle through its streets and precincts in the ’80s races held their. So, after hearing good things about its transformation, I decided to make the trip on my NR £2 return.
I started my day with a couple of swift drinks in the Bankers Draft. The first pint was a very nice Salamander Juicy Lucy, a pale of 4% with banana overtones. As the train was departing at 11:35, I followed this with a half of JHB bitter of 4.2% before the walk to Midland Station.
As always, or so it seems, the announcer stated the train would depart from 4a, rather than the 1a we were all sat on. The mass exodus over the bridge was quite chaotic. The short hop to Barnsley quickly passed, and before I knew it we arrived in the town.
As usual, I had a little exploration before hitting the bars. I must say that they have regenerated the town centre with great success. It is nice and bright, with a mix of old, new and very few vacant units. The market in particular is worth a mention, busy and vibrant with a variety of stalls to suit everyone, and a very busy food hall with Artisan food vendors. There was a Deli that sold tapas style dishes, now I love pitted olives with chilli, but be aware these were dynamite and good value at £2 for around a dozen or so.
With my mouth tingling, it as time for a drink. I made my way up Market Street to The Kestrel. A little like a Wetherspoon, but with music, TVs and a very good darts set-up. There was 2 beers on from the 6 wickets on the bar. As one was Landlord, I plumped for Ringwood’s Razor Back, a 3.8% session bitter at a reasonable £3.60 and served by a friendly girl.
A customer recommended my next port of call should be the Old No 7, so off I went up Market Hill. As I approached, ready to take my photograph, there was a chap about to have a cigarette who kindly stepped back in while I did so. This turned out to be Matty, a customer and part-time custodian of the bar. I was immediately impressed with the 8 pumps, only 1 of which had run out. I plumped for the Acorn CF299 IPA, a full-bodied 5% of English heritage. I also put a SALT Suede stout in the pump and a very tasty 4.1% with notes of chocolate and coffee, nicely roasted it was.
Manager Adam certainly knows his stuff and after moving from Skipton’s Blackhorse, he is certainly making this establishment a success. Beers regularly come from Acorn, Thornbridge, Little Critters and Ossett, as well as further afield.
Matty had said that my next visit should be Bar Ruelle on Regent Street S, as it was another that carried an impressive array of cask. A little awkward to find, but close to the Interchange on a little side street. The bar nestles in-between small shops. Stepping in, you are faced with a bright and modern interior with the normal sight of regulars sat at the bar. As stated the pumps were varied between dark and light beers including Acorn, Theakston’s and Titanic. My first drink was Fixed Wheels Chain Reaction, 4.2% APA with Ossett’s White Rat 4% EPA closely following on. I still had over a hour to go, so 2 more beers were consumed here, those being Acorn Barnsley Bitter 3.8% and a rather nice Old Moor Porter 4.4% from the same brewery.
I left to make the short journey across the road to the Interchange for my train home. Faced with a short delay, the train arrived 10 minute late for the short journey home. As it was still fairly early, I popped in the Old Queens Head for one last drink. The pumps on the bar have changed slightly with 4 of them being dedicated to Thwaites beers, so I plumped for a pint of Vocation Bread & Butter 3.9% APA and very nice it was too.
All in all, a very pleasant and successful reconnaissance for a summer social to the town with the branch. As Arnie said “I’ll be back.”
CAMRA’s Members’ Weekend, AGM & Conference is held annually in April and is open to all CAMRA members. Not only is it a chance to discuss motions at Conference, it also gives members the opportunity to socialise in the onsite bar, attend information sessions and explore the beer scene of different cities around the UK.
After hosting the event here in Sheffield last year, this year sees it held in Dundee, celebrating the 50th anniversary of CAMRA in Scotland. It is being held over the weekend of 26-28 April. You can register to attend on the CAMRA website and receive details in advance via email, alternatively you can just turn up and register on the door if capacity is available.
Many members make a longer break of the Members’ Weekend rather than just travelling up for the conference. As well as checking out the pubs of Dundee it is a base for day trips to other nearby Scottish towns and cities. There are also other things to do aside from drink, for example Dundee is home to the V&A Design museum and the opportunity to experience life in the Antarctic with Captain Scott and his crew on the RRS Discovery at Discovery Point!
The CAMRA event is being hosted at Caird Hall, located in the City Square. As well as the AGM & Conference this features a Members’ Bar which is a small beer & cider festival open exclusively to members and will principally showcase real ale brewed in Scotland.
Whilst it is a long way to travel from Sheffield it is easy enough to get to on the train with just one change – catch a Cross Country service up to Edinburgh and connect with Scotrail services to Dundee. The cheapest train tickets are available in limited numbers if you book a specific time in advance, they are also most likely to be available at the less busy times/days. See the Cross Country Trains website for availability and to book. Alternative LNER run a daily service between York and Dundee with connections available to/from Sheffield. Various third party agencies also sell train tickets such as Uber or Trainline.
If you need cheaper but slower options it is possible by coach – some direct coaches operate, otherwise it requires a connection in Edinburgh – check out Megabus.com, Flixbus and National Express.
Dundee fairly recently hosted a previous Members’ Weekend, in 2019. Read about that here.
Northern Rail had their first sale of the year, and I thought it rude not to travel to Manchester for the princely sum of £3 return.
After two small delays, one at Sheffield Station, the other at Edale due to point issues. I arrived at Manchester Piccadilly around 15 minutes late.
Turning right, I strolled along the main road finally finding a small record shop for a browse and chat. He pointed me round the corner to the Northern Monk Refectory, tucked on the backstreet of Tariff Street. A good range of beers in a dark, wooden interior. There was mainly 5% plus beers on offer, but with it being the first of the day, I went for a pint of Verdant People, Money, Space, Time, a sessional New England hazy 3.4% pale.
I then went off for a stroll, taking photos of people and buildings including the Cathedral. Just round the corner sits the Old Wellington, a Tudor style pub with timber beams and three floors. Again, a decent range of beers where I went for a Dark Star Hophead 3.8% Blonde/Golden. Next stop was Wetherspoons Seven Stars in the Printworks. Reasonably priced, but unusually not a lot of choice. Out of the three “proper ales” on offer, Peerless’s Triple Blond was the best option at 4%.
Having had a little Google search, I set out to find the Port Street Beer House, rated highly it sits on a small backstreet, and definitely needs Google Maps to find. An eclectic choice, both on cask and keg, I sampled Mallisons Nippy 4.1% Pale and Dark North Oatmeal Stout 5.5%. People were easy to talk to and a chap from the Wirral recommended a Whip It Real Good imperial stout from Black Iris. Tasting like a Walnut Whip, but unlike the chocolate it weighed in at 12% and cost £6 for a half.
I still had a couple of hours, so I strolled back to be near Piccadilly, landing at the Crown & Kettle and a Brew York Tonkoko, a 4.3% milk stout. The pub itself was a high ceilinged, gothic windowed style pub.
Next was a pub I had visited before, the Castle Hotel and resembled the White Lion in Sheffield with small, ornate rooms. Again, great choice with a Titanic Cherry Porter, 4.9% and a Robinsons Dizzy Blonde, 3.8% accompanied with great conversation about music with three older guys.
Finally before the train home, I popped in the Piccadilly Tavern where out of the various pumps I had a half of Thwaites Gold, a 4.1% blonde/golden.
Fortunately, the train was on time and the journey swiftly passed with conversation with a chap whose daughter lived in Walkley and had sampled the Walkley Beer Co and the Raven. A great day, good value and cracking beers. Roll on Barnsley next month, and Northern Rail’s next sale.
Having done our traditional City Centre pub social the previous weekend, it was unusual to do two such socials in as many weeks but with news that the long established Royal Hotel in Dungworth is likely to be closing down at the beginning of March with the long established owners retiring and selling up we thought it would be timely to pay a visit – and pop in a a couple of other pubs out that way whilst there!
Stagecoach bus 62 from Hillsborough Interchange runs a circular route on an hourly frequency with a stop right outside the Royal Hotel, it also links Bradfield, Loxley and Wisewood too. We met up at the Beer House in Hillsborough, which is conveniently located next to both the tram stop and bus station!
One the bus has gone through Malin Bridge and wandered around the estates in Stannington it hits beautiful countryside as it meanders up hill and down dale and on the way to Dungworth look out for the dairy farm that is the home of Our Cow Molly milk and ice cream! The journey time from Hillsborough to Dungworth is 24 minutes.
The Royal is a pub that still retains a traditional layout where you arrive via a corridor with various small rooms off to the side as well as the main lounge at the front. The bar had two cask ales available – Bradfield Yorkshire Farmer and Clark’s Best Bitter.
The pub also serves a small menu of food including a variety of pot pies, mostly steak or chicken based along with a few other dishes including liver & onion, lasagne and omelettes. Many of our party ordered a pie for lunch!
A nice little feature that has been there for many years is the windowsill in the room at the back of the pub, which affords a breath-taking view over the Loxley Valley, has a pair of binoculars for customer use!
After a couple of hours at the Royal, we just had enough time for a group photograph outside before boarding the bus again!
After Dungworth the bus passes Dam Flask lake which is the home to a sailing club and it also passes the Plough pub along with the cricket and bowling clubs in Low Bradfield before climbing up the hill to High Bradfield where we alighted for the Old Horns Inn.
The Old Horns is a Thwaites pub leased to a local operator, however the real ales on the bar were from Bradfield (Blonde, Brow Cow and Belgian Blue), Black Sheep and Theakstons. Unfortunately every table in the pub was reserved for diners so away from the bar drinkers were confined to a choice of a single bench or the outdoor drinking area, which affords a fantastic view over the valley – it was rather cold though!
We stayed at the Horns for an hour until the next bus, which heads along the main road, past the Nags Head Inn (a tap for Bradfield Brewery) and the Admiral Rodney in Loxley before dropping downhill to Wisewood. We alighted outside the Wisewood Inn where we had another hour between buses in order to enjoy a variety of Loxley Brewery beers, which are brewed on site there.
The bus then returned us to Hillsborough Interchange for onward bus or tram connections and our happy party bid each other farewell after an enjoyable afternoon drinking in rural pubs and went off to enjoy their Saturday evening!
To mark my 65th birthday last November we decided to spend a night in Holmfirth and chose the very centrally located Old Bridge Hotel for our stay. All the pubs and bars on our list are easily accessible from this very smart hotel, which does have a limited free car park and overlooks the River Holme and Holmfirth bus station. It also sells real ale, but more of that later. Fortunately my birthday fell on a Thursday for had we come on a Monday, Tuesday or even a Wednesday some of the pubs and bars were closed. Even on a Thursday opening in some was not until 3pm/4pm.
After an extensive wander around the streets and shops, including morning coffee at Bluebird Bakery we headed to Harvey’s Bar & Kitchen with a view to having something to eat. Unfortunately only one cask beer was available and we didn’t fancy anything from the food menu so moved on to the Tap House. A selection of beers were available from the nearby Nook Brewhouse but on entering we were told that the bar was closing at 1pm and would reopen at about 3:30pm, It was now 12:45, so I just had a half of Nook Session IPA (3.8%). We decided to lunch at Hollowgate Fish & Chip shop but had to eat them outside as the advertised inside seating was closed off. In order to walk off our lunch we went to the furthest pub on the list, the Postcard Hotel on the main Huddersfield Road through Holmfirth. This was a fairly large roadside pub and half of Theakston Best Bitter (3.8%) was enjoyed. This pub was not on the tourist trail around the town and our stay was somewhat spoilt by the sometimes loud and colorful language of some of the local punters. Returning to the centre we sought out the Elephant & Castle with a view to looking at the food menu for a meal later in the day as this was advertised as being available until 6.45pm. My Adnams Ghost Ship (4.5%) was pleasant enough but on enquiring about food we were informed that hot drinks and food was not available as the kitchen was being refurbished, although I must say that there was no sign of any activity in the kitchen at all.
We returned to the hotel to book in and freshen up before setting out again. The first port of call after this was about a two minute walk from the hotel and what a breath of fresh air this place was. The Magic Rock Tapwas light, airy and had a fresh feel to it and with pleasant staff and customers. I had a half of the dark and tasty cask Magic Rock Dark Arts Honeycomb Surreal Stout (6.6%). All three handpumps were in operation here which was in total contrast to our next port of call, O’Briens Bottle Shop & Beer Cafe just around the corner from here on Huddersfield Road. This had several keg taps on the wall and three handpumps on the bar. On enquiring about cask beer I was told that they had none on as the lines were due to be cleaned. I would have thought that they had plenty of time during their closed hours (3pm opening even on a Thursday) to clean the lines so that they could at least serve cask beer when they actually opened. I was disappointed and underwhelmed by this establishment. Anyway, on to the next bar – Oscar’s Café & Wine Bar. This was brightly lit and looked welcoming, but again no real ale was available so we then sought solace in the very busy Rose & Crown. This is also known as the Nook and is the home of Nook Brewhouse. Many cask Nook beers were available and I sampled both Elder Flower (4.5%) and Choco Orange Stout (5.2%) followed by a half of their guest ale, Wensleydale Angels Touch (4.0%). This pub was bustling with regulars and visitors and we chose to eat in here. There was only one staff member behind the bar but he was doing a sterling job. Next we were hoping to go in Y’s Bar & Snap, but it was closed.
After this further disappointment we decided to head back to the Old Bridge Hotelbar which had six handpumps of which five were in operation. I finished with a rather nice half of Recoil White Snake pale ale (4%).
Given the number of closed/late opening pubs/bars it occurred to me that maybe Holmfirth had it’s hey day during the many years of filming for Last of the Summer Wine and is now suffering a little as filming has ceased. Even Sid’s Café was closed on a Wednesday and Thursday.
Another Grand Day (and night) Out but was hoping for a slightly better choice of cask beer in some of the pubs/bars, when they were open that is!
We were invited to join our friends in the Dronfield & District CAMRA branch on some of their events recently.
WIRKSWORTH & MATLOCK BUS TRIP
The first joint social was a trip on the Stagecoach X17 bus which runs from Sheffield and Chesterfield through to Wirksworth via Matlock. The service runs half hourly as far as Matlock with one bus an hour continuing to Wirksworth. Currently An all day Derbyshire Wayfarer bus pass costs £8 or single tickets are just £2 a ride thanks to a government subsidised fare cap!
Given that the longest bus ride is much more comfortably done without a bladder full of beer we started at the furthest pub away – the Feather Star in Wirksworth. This quirky pub, which doubled up as a shop selling vinyl records, offered a choice of around 6 cask ales on handpump plus a number of interesting craft beers on keg too.
After a couple of beers we jumped back on an X17 to Cromford for a cheeky half in the Boat Inn. Had it not been raining the beer garden would have been an attractive proposition here but instead we grabbed an inside table not required by diners for our brief visit before heading to the bus stop for a Trent Barton 6.1 bus, unfortunately it didn’t turn up so the opportunity was taken to grab lunch at the chippy by the bus stop and instead catch the next X17 down to Matlock Bath!
The choice pub here was the Fishpond. A limited but attractive beer range here and most tables inside were reserved for diners, however the place to be is the heated and sheltered outside area with a view of the fishpond and waterfall!
The other place to go for the real ale drinker, after walking past various amusement arcades, fish & chip shops and ice cream parlours, is the Old Banknote, a micropub with three handpumps, which on our visit featured a choice of beers from Eyam brewery.
The next move was back on the X17 into Matlock town. We had an ambitious list of good pubs in the town but limited ourselves just to Bod Cafe-bar run by Titanic Brewery along with the award winning Twenty-Ten bar, two venues almost next door to one another, before heading back to Chesterfield and Sheffield (with an easy connection to Dronfield on the 43/44 bus from Chesterfield before the X17 heads up the bypass fast to Sheffield).
MEET & GREET #1 – COACH & HORSES
The Coach & Horses pub is on the edge of Dronfield attached to the Sheffield FC football ground and is run by Thornbridge brewery and the Dronfield CAMRA branch took the pub over on the evening of Friday 6 October to meet & greet local drinkers and hopefully recruit some new members. The evening started with a beer tasting with samples of various Thornbridge beers shared around, this was followed by a beer themed quiz then live music provided by Jamie Mallender’s Swear Box. The branch also hosted a membership stand in the pub with lots of information available.
Later in October saw another Dronfield CAMRA Friday night Meet & Greet event, this time at the Dronfield Arms, which is home to Temper Brewing.
Again the evening featured a beer tasting with everyone in the pub offered tasters from Temper’s cask beer range along with a quiz. Pizza Pi, who serve from a kiosk in the pub beer garden from 4pm-9pm Thursday to Saturday also provided a few free samples which tempted many to order themselves a full pizza!
Since then the branch ran a Sunday social on 19 November starting off with a carvery lunch at the Dronfield Pioneer Club followed by a wander down the hill to the Dronfield Arms and Underdog.
The next Dronfield branch event is a branch meeting at the White Swan on 12 December, 8pm start then:
Sunday 7 January – Post Christmas social: Sunday carvery and a pint at the Hyde Park Inn at Hill Top.
Tuesday 9 January – branch meeting at the Pioneer Club in Dronfield.
Tuesday 13 February – branch meeting at the George & Dragon in Holmesfield.
More information about what Dronfield & District branch are up to can be found on their website – dronfield.camra.org.uk and look out for their “Peel Ale” magazine.
Having been a regular visitor to India in the decade leading up to the plague, this was my first trip since that forced hiatus. India had never had a big beer culture (or at least not since the days the British were stationed there) but brewpubs were just starting to appear when I first went in 2010. Many more were to spring up over the next few years but very much concentrated in a few cities like Delhi and Bengaluru, and beer quality generally ranged from average to homebrew (with the honourable exception of Arbor in Bengaluru, an offspring of the eponymous brewer in Michigan (and not related to the one in Brizzle!)). However, in the last few years brewpubs have started to spring up all over the place, and with the exception of the dry state of Gujarat I was able to find craft beer in almost every city I stayed. Unsurprisingly, Untappd and Ratebeer are very incomplete for India, but I found simply searching ‘craft beer’ on Google maps came up with the best results.
As with previous trips, I had an ‘open jaw’ flight (in this case out to Mumbai, back from Delhi) and used trains to get between cities, generally paying around a tenner for an overnight journey in air-conditioned sleeper class. Local travel during the day was a mix of local trains costing 20-50p a trip, Uber (half hour ride from the airport costing the princely sum of £3), and autorickshaws costing between 50p and 2 quid a trip. Decent hotels were generally under £20 a room, food is cheap and contrary to stereotype perfectly safe if you follow Rule 1 – watch it being cooked fresh in front of you. In fact the only thing that isn’t cheap is craft beer! As with many cheap countries, craft beer isn’t noticeably cheaper than here, with a 300ml glass being £2 at the cheapest place I went and £4 at the most expensive.
Although I landed in Mumbai I didn’t plan to spend much time there (been before, and it’s humid as hell), so just the one bar before heading north, namely Doolally Taproom, an outlet for the eponymous brewery on the outskirts of Mumbai. A small bar, with lovely air conditioning, six beers were on offer plus a cider and a mead. I opted for the ‘flight’, six 100ml glasses for a bit under a tenner, along with some spicy masala topped chips with dips. The coffee and orange mead was really interesting, the beers were all decent if not exciting, the oat stout probably being the pick. From here we took a train to Anand for the overnight journey to Veraval.
Being as the next two days were in Gujarat there’s not much to report for a beer magazine, so I’ll skip ahead to Rajasthan…
I last visited Jodhpur in 2010, and was only really passing through this time, but had long enough to visit 4 Brothers brewpub. The brewery and restaurant are on the ground floor, but we were directed to the ‘sky bar’, though really it was just an upstairs room with a glass front.
Beers were a bit different from the ‘usual’ Indian brewpub offerings, with mango wheat, a strawberry ale and a rose wheat!
I spent three nights in Ludhiana (carefully planned mid-trip so I’d be able to avail of the hotel laundry service, halving the amount of clothes I needed to carry round), which happens to have three brewpubs all five minutes’ walk apart. First up was Underdoggs, a sports bar (no prize for guessing which sport was on, especially as it was the World Cup!). I tried the surprisingly refreshing Masala Saison and the German Wheat, there were also a lager and a cider.
Just down the road is Brew Estate, part of a small chain of brewpubs, on this occasion offering their ‘house’ lager and a German style Bock. The cricket was on here too.
Finally, round the corner was Brew Haus, which wasn’t showing the cricket but from the rooftop bar one could watch on a huge screen in the square. The beers were Gabru, a pale lager, and dark lager Boxer. Both very German in style, fairly sweet and a slight biscuity finish.
From here I popped over the Haryana state line to Ambala, where I visited Pyramid brewpub. Inside it was much the same as most of the other places, dimly lit and large screens showing the cricket. I picked the Belgian Wheat (well the Scottish Ale was off and the lager was, well, lager).
Back in Punjab the train took me to Bathinda, where I visited The Brewery Club, which has the brewery on the ground floor, a restaurant upstairs and a bar downstairs, though food is also served at the latter, and I had an egg curry with jeera rice. Beers were a German Ale, a German Lager, a Belgian wit and a dark lager. These were by far the cheapest beers of the trip, but were as good as any of the other brewpubs I tried in Punjab. The menu somewhat bizarrely referred to both 350ml and 550ml measures as ‘British Pint’!
*Tourism interlude* While in Punjab I decided it would be rude not to visit the Golden Temple at Amritsar, I took an autorickshaw from the station to near the temple then walked the rest of the way, which was slow progress as I got stuck in traffic despite being on foot! The narrow alleys are totally unsuited to motor traffic, but that doesn’t stop people driving autorickshaws down them, completely clogging the way. Once at the temple I checked in my boots, receiving a metal token in return, I then had to buy some loose-fitting trousers as shorts are not allowed inside, and finally was loaned a patka (head covering). I spent a good while exploring the temple, though at the risk of losing my Yorkshire green card I passed up the opportunity of a free meal at the langar as the queue was too long – well they do serve 100,000 meals a day!
Once I finished at the temple, binned the trousers and retrieved my boots I took an autorickshaw across town to a little cluster of craft bars, starting with the most familiar, Brewdog. Obviously I eschewed their own wares in favour of the local guests… inside it was like any Brewdog bar anywhere in the world, and was quite empty at the time I went. I had an excellent mango wheat and a decent IPA from Mobster brewery, and from Brew Nut a stout.
From here it was a short stroll to Beer Story, a small bar with just one craft beer among the Kingfisher etc, Beach Beauty Pilsner from Aquarian brewery.
Round the corner on the second floor of a shopping centre is Egyptian Brewery, another brewpub, offering light and strong versions of lager. At this point my internet connection randomly cut out, thankfully after I’d ordered my Uber back to the station and my final overnight train of the trip.
As with Mumbai I’d given myself little time in Delhi, as it has featured in almost all my Indian trips so far. There are a handful of brewpubs and craft bars in central Delhi, but the district of Gurgaon has loads, however I’m pretty sure not all the brewpubs actually brew – in particular there’s a square which had three brewpubs when I went and grew to at least nine, but all with suspiciously similar beer range! For my trip swansong I opted for Fort City Brewing in New Delhi, a modern brewpub seemingly popular with Indians and westerners alike. I worked my way through most of the beers, ignoring only the lagers, accompanied by a pulled duck burger for a bit of a change from spicy food three times a day (not that I was complaining!). The beers were definitely the best (and most expensive!) of the trip, including a dunkelweizen, a stout, a NEIPA and a berry witbier.
After that it just remained to get a £2.60 Uber for the half hour drive to the airport, exchange my online boarding card for a printed one (the airport procedures have got a lot smoother since that first trip when we queued an hour just to get in the building, but they still like to stamp the boarding card at the check-in desk, at passport control and at security control), fly overnight to Munchen and on to Brum, then a train back to Sheffield that made me wonder if I was still in India, taking 45 minutes to get from Birmingham International to New St and then absolutely crush loaded from there to Sheffield…
Once back at Sheffield station it was just a 15 minute walk home, or would have been had I not gone via Rutland Arms, Head of Steam, Vocation, Brewdog, Crow and Lost in West Bar. By that stage I was too tired to go to Shakespeare so just took a Bolt home and ordered a curry…
