Supping in The Smoke

A mid-December London trip by committee member Paul Manning and his wife Bev

Our long arranged trip, which coincided with the start of Omicron, got underway after boosters and negative lateral flow tests, with a train journey from Sheffield to St Pancras on a sparsely populated East Midlands train. We were in need of some refreshment on arrival so went in the Barrel Vault Wetherspoon’s on the station where we had a couple of pints of Winter Star (a dark winter ale) and Naked Ladies (a light hoppy ale) by the excellent Twickenham Fine Ales. Priced at £3.98 it was by far the cheapest beer all trip! A short, even more sparsely populated tube journey took us to Hampton by Hilton London Waterloo, our base for the trip.

South Bank Bev

We ventured out late afternoon and enjoyed a very lonely and quiet walk on the South Bank to meet an ex-colleague and his wife for an evening meal. We called in at the Mad Hatter Fuller’s pub at Southwark for some London Pride and then Blitzen dark ale by Black Sheep Brewery at Doggett’s Coat & Badge. There were excellent views across the river and a number of pop-up Christmas stalls and bars. We sampled one at Hay’s Galleria but it wasn’t cask – an unpronounceable IPA at over £7 a pint. An excellent meal at Côte Brasserie followed with some French bottled beer, which was very nice.

The next day we jumped on a tube for the Bank of England counter where I changed some old bank notes. The streets and shops were eerily quiet with many office staff clearly following working-from-home advice.

McMullen’s Bootwarmer in the Old Bank of England

We called in at the Old Bank of England on Fleet Street, now a McMullen pub, for a pint of their Bootwarmer, a great festive ale.

Memorabilia in the fantastic Edgar Wallace
Southwark Brewing’s Bankside Blonde

Across the road down Essex Street, we went in a fantastic little pub called the Edgar Wallace a regular CAMRA award winner and sampled Bankside Blonde by Southwark Brewing Company. The pub featured an amazing array of drinking and smoking memorabilia on all the walls including brands such as Double Diamond, Babycham and Swan Vesta.

£22 of pie

A quick pint of Wandle by Sambrook’s Brewery in the Nell of Old Drury followed before a visit to the Pie Room, a MasterChef-featured dining room in Holborn where we had a fantastic meal even though the pies alone were £22 each.

La Chouffe in Lowlander

On the way to our evening visit to see the musical Mamma Mia! we stopped off in the Lowlander craft ale cafe on Drury Lane which served excellent Belgium beers in keg and bottles. We had the delightfully named La Chouffe and Kwak beers and then battled our way through a huge Covid booster queue to the Novello Theatre.

Windsor & Eton’s Mandarin

On leaving we visited a local Wetherspoon’s, the Shakespeare’s Head, for pints of Three Kings by East London Brewing Company and Mandarin by Windsor & Eton – both very quaffable. A quick look around the now much busier Covent Garden ended our evening and visit.

Covent Garden getting busier

London is a fantastic place to visit and seek out some real ales and I’m sure we will be back in safer and hopefully busier times.   

The current pubco scene

A pub company is simply a company that owns pubs and there are literally hundreds of them, many with only a handful or even just one pub. We’ll concentrate here, though, on the bigger companies who, between them, own over half the country’s pubs.

Stonegate

Founded in 2010 with the purchase of 333 pubs from Mitchells & Butlers, Stonegate grew quite slowly over the next ten years, making a series of acquisitions including brands like Slug & Lettuce, Walkabout and Be At One, until its pub numbers totalled 765. All the pubs were managed houses. A seismic change came in 2020 when Ei Group was bought for £1.27bn, making Stonegate the largest pub company in the UK with 1,270 managed pubs and, as a result of the Ei purchase, 3,200 leased and tenanted businesses.

Ei itself had been founded, as Enterprise Inns, in 1991, initially with 333 pubs from Bass. The company built up its estate, gaining 2,200 pubs in batches by buying them from other companies or taking them over. In 2002, 1,864 pubs were bought from Whitbread and in 2004, 4,054 from Unique. By this time, it owned nearly 10,000 pubs and was in the FTSE 100 list of top companies. However, it was loaded with debt and the 2008 financial crash required a good deal of retrenchment. Ei also started building up its managed estate, including pubs on retail agreements under the Craft Union brand (we’ll look at this operating model in the next article). By the time of the sale, it was down to fewer than 4,000 pubs.

Punch Taverns

The first article included a brief history of Punch to illustrate the volatility around pubco development. In summary, it grew quickly to around 8,000 pubs, suffered under the crash, sold a lot of pubs including its managed division and was taken over in 2016. 1,900 pubs went to Heineken and 1,300 to Patron Capital, who retain the Punch brand. At takeover time, all pubs were leased or tenanted but it’s also now pushing retail agreements (which it calls Management Partnerships). Some pubs were sold but in June 2021 it announced the purchase of Youngs’ tenanted division, bringing the current total to 1,282.

Admiral Taverns

Admiral was founded in 2003 by two families and grew quickly to 2,300 pubs by 2007. Many of these were ‘bottom end’ houses disposed of by other pub companies. The financial crash had the usual consequences for over-extended businesses and numbers were down to 1,700 by 2011 and continued to fall. By 2017 it was in the hands of Cerberus Capital Management who sold up to a joint venture by Magners cider-makers C&C Group and estate investor Proprium Capital Partners, by which time there were 845 pubs. The acquisition trail was hit in 2019 with 137 pubs coming from Marston’s and 150 from Heineken. The big one arrived in July 2021 when Admiral bought 674 Hawthorn pubs from property firm New River taking the estate to over 1,500.

Admiral’s pubs are all tenanted or leased and tend to be wet-led community operations. It has a relatively good reputation in the trade though there’s certainly no aversion to flogging off pubs as ‘development opportunities’.

Star Pubs & Bars

In 1995, Scottish & Newcastle, one of the original ‘Big Six’ breweries, bought another of them, Courage, making the combined group Britain’s biggest brewer. By 2011, the pub arm, then known as S&N Pub Co, had 1,500 tenanted pubs and 600 in management. Come 2008, Scottish Courage was gobbled up by international brewer Heineken and the pub business rebranded as Star Pubs & Bars. Many pubs were sold but then, in 2017, as previously mentioned, 1,900 were snapped up from Punch. Again there were disposals and the estate currently stands at 2,500.

Star vigorously promote their retail agreement scheme, Just Add Talent. In 2020, it was fined £2m for breaches of the Pubs Code (which we’ll cover in a later article).

Greene King

In 1995, Greene King was a long-established family brewer with 900 pubs, nearly all in East Anglia and the South-East. It then embarked on a ferocious acquisition trail, swallowing up many breweries (the likes of Morlands, Belhaven, Morrells and Hardy & Hanson) and other pub companies. GK itself is now owned by a billionaire Hong Kong property developer. It has some 3,100 pubs, restaurants and hotels, of which 1,200 are tenanted or leased. Its strategy seems to be to move in the managed direction and the ‘Pub Ready’ retail agreements are pushed hard. GK was once renowned for not letting other people’s beers in its pubs but now have a more enlightened attitude.

Marston’s

The company was known as Wolverhampton & Dudley until 2007 when it rebranded as Marston’s, one of the many breweries it had taken over in recent years. At that time, 2,500 pubs were owned but the total is now down to 1,400. The tenanted estate, in particular, has been reduced through sales such as 200 to New River in 2013 and 137 to Admiral in 2019. In late 2020, the company took on the running of 156 Brains pubs in Wales. Also that year, Marston’s merged its brewing operations with Carlsberg but this does not directly affect the pub business.

Mitchells & Butlers

Formed originally out of the old Bass estate, M&B have 1,650 pubs and restaurants. The multitudinous brands include Ember Inns, Toby Carveries, Nicholson’s and All Bar One – as can be seen, the emphasis is on food. Pubs are mostly managed though around 50 are on a lease arrangement.

JD Wetherspoon

Since opening its first pub in 1979, ‘Spoons has expanded to 925 pubs and 50 hotels, all managed. Plans for 18 new pubs are in the pipeline,

Wellington

Owned by the billionaire Reuben Brothers, the company leases all its 850 pubs on a free of tie basis.

Abbeydale Brewery

Well, it’s that time of year once more – and we can’t quite believe our 25th anniversary year is coming to a close already! It’s been another wild ride and we can’t thank you all enough for your support. Here’s to the next 25!

Onto what we’ll be releasing for the various upcoming festivities… perfectly pintable Doctor Morton’s Rude Elf (4.1%) and a cheeky Mosaic and Summit hopped Reveller (3.9%) are both making a comeback to take us firmly into the party season. Joining them on the pale ale front are Prophecy (4.5%) and Centennial single hopped Resolution (4.2%). All of these will be released in cask only, so look out for them popping up on bars soon!

We’ve also got a couple of brand new beers being released in keg and can as well as cask – look out for Wilderness (5.2%), a gorgeous soft and juicy New England style pale ale loaded with Amarillo, Enigma and Nelson Sauvin, and Wanderer which this time takes the form of a 6.5% Aussie IPA with Galaxy and Vic Secret hops.

The new year will bring the first of a new series which we’re really excited about – our Restoration series will see modern interpretations of classic and historical beer styles, the first of which will be a light, bright and drinkable 2.8% Table Beer, low in ABV but packed with character from Vic Secret and Enigma hops. If there are any styles you’d like to see us try our own contemporary twist on, do let us know – we can’t wait to see where this range will take us!

Plus as is now customary, the new year will see the return of the ever-popular Citra hopped Doctor Morton’s Duck Baffler (4.1%).

Finally if you’re wanting to get some easy Christmas shopping done, I just can’t resist giving a little shout out to the lovely new merch we’ve got recently, including Deception t-shirts and cosy zip up hoodies – all available on our online shop!

Wishing you all a very merry festive season, and a joyful start to 2022!

Cheers!

Laura, on behalf of all of us at Team Abbeydale

Martin “Silly Rabbit” Revill

A key member of Sheffield CAMRA and of the Sheffield beer festival for around 30 years. Having worked on the set up and take down of many festivals, Martin finally cajoled his brother into joining the cause and promoting real ale in Sheffield. They both then bent my ear until I joined up. This then began my journey and transition from tasteless frothy rubbish into real ale.

Martin was always the first to arrive and last to leave during festival set ups. Working tirelessly to give the attendees the perfect experience and therefore the best possible impression of what we are all about.

He was an absolute brute in the cellar set up and perfect gentleman at the bar, while sipping a dark ale or Old Rosie he presented an imposing figure in long sweeping coats, various hats, a glint in the eye and infectious smile. Picture a cross between Oscar Wild and Jeff Capes via a gothic Doctor Who. A treasure of a man with a rapier like wit, hollow legs and always ready with a story to cheer up the group.

Bring up Martins name to any member of Sheffield CAMRA, his local the Kelham Island Tavern or anyone he knew, I guarantee you will see an instant smile flash across their face, a raise of an eyebrow then a deep breath as they retell a tale of monsters, wizards, warrior maidens and heroes. Or more realistically great nights, brewery trips and days out around Yorkshire hunting out ale hot spots.

The real ale scene, nay the world is a worse place for having lost Martin. Whenever I come across a new cider or rabbit punned beer I will always wonder what you would have made of it and drink to you. The places you loved will stand for years and I will always look for you in the spots where we used to drink.

I loved the time we spent and the fun we had, sadly there will be no more. You leave a massive hole mate. Rest in peace and see you in the KIT, I’ll get the first round.

Noel Nield

I’d like to add to Noel’s words on behalf of myself and the beer festival team.

I first met Martin nearly 20 years ago when I started volunteering for the Sheffield beer festival. He was one of the “gang of three”, big lads, with his brother Mark and mate Noel. In those days we had no lifting equipment and Martin and Noel lifted the full barrels up to head height to fit on the top of the stillage. They’d work away cheerfully all day at was physically beyond the rest of us, with an incredible stream of banter between them. I was in awe of their teamwork. Martin cut an unlikely figure with goth looks and black nail varnish, and he also doubled as our bouncer when the festival was in session, a job he did with ease. Martin was one of the people who made me really welcome when I started doing festivals and we used to spend hours joshing about with his craic and ready humour.

Sundays saw him dressed in his best , looking resplendent in suit and overcoat with his family at the Kelham, looking like a character out of Dickens, again with a lively stream of banter. Once at a Halloween party I was confronted by a bright green man – yes it was Martin in one of his outrageous costumes. His last festival was 2019, and he was recovering from the initial onset of his brain tumour. Physically he could no longer help a lot, but he was determined to turn up for the festival, his ready wit and humour still to the fore. For him the festival was important, a social occasion to get together with the rest of us festival makers once a year and have a good time. We will miss him.

When I see someone out of the corner of my eye buying a pint of Black Mass, and hear a group of mates having a good laugh and joke at a packed festival, I’ll know he’s still with us in spirit. 

Rest in peace big man, I feel proud to have known you.

Chris Pearce, Cellar Manager

Fuggle Bunny Brewhouse

Fuggle Bunny has announced the brewery has been sold as brewer Dave approaches his retirement, although their Chapter One bar in Worksop will continue under the same management. The new owner is Matt, who has been working there for the last six years and he and is wife Laura are now running the brewery with business as usual in both the brewery and tap room, located between Halfway and Killamarsh.

In a post on the brewery’s Facebook page Wendy and Dave said ‘a huge thank you to all our customers many who have become firm friends over the past 7 years. Your support through good and bad has been immense and we would have not come this far without all of you. So from the bottom of our hearts thank you to one and all who has hopped on board our adventure.’

Budget reaction – pubs, beer and cider

Changing the tax system to better support pubs can help the Great British local thrive – but more pubs, breweries and drinkers should be able to benefit, say CAMRA 

Responding in full to yesterday’s Budget announcements, CAMRA National Chairman Nik Antona said: 

“The Chancellor has listened to thousands of CAMRA members who have long called for a change in the way alcohol is taxed. A new, lower rate of duty for draught beer and cider served in pubs and clubs establishes an important principle in the taxation system – that pubs are a force for good in our communities and should be supported to help them survive and compete with the likes of supermarkets. 

“Our task before this new duty rate is implemented in 2023 is to make sure that the new, lower draught duty rate applies to beer and cider served in smaller containers too, so that as many pubs, breweries and consumers as possible can benefit. We will be using the Government’s consultation on how this new system should operate in practice to make this case. 

“In the meantime, measures like duty freezes and a 50% cut in business rates in England for another year will be welcomed. Our pubs and breweries are still recovering from the pandemic, face rising bills and costs and will continue to need as much support as they can get so they can rebuild their businesses and thrive in the years to come. 

“Cutting tax for lower ABV drinks will incentivise lower strength alcoholic drinks, whilst new financial support for smaller producers – including cider producers – and continuing discussions around a 50% minimum juice content are encouraging news for both cider makers and consumers. These measures should help to improve quality and choice at the bar. CAMRA will continue to engage with the Government on the planned reforms to Small Brewers Relief and call for a solution that doesn’t require some of the smallest breweries to have to pay more tax.”

St Mars of the Desert

We are gearing up for a busy pre-Christmas in the taproom! Smodfest, our weekend-long lager celebration, was a roaring success, and we had a fun summer brewing collaborations with Deya and welcoming our new brewing apprentice Scarlet onto the team.

In the meantime, it’s winter on Mars so our thoughts in the brewery are turning to richer, darker beers. Expect some creative Flanders-inspired beers and some big stouts to celebrate the cold. Plus we are continuing our fruity series of tart oak-fermented beers and radlers. I’m sure we’ll squeeze in a hoppy beer here and there too!

Cheers and hope to see everyone soon.

Inn Brief

Pangolin at Hillsborough is hosting a meet the brewer and tasting event with Yonder on 29 October. This is part of the Funk Fest Trail. Advance tickets are required and cost £20.

Other venues hosting events in Abbeydale’s Funk Fest Trail include the Rising Sun, Rutland Arms, Crow Inn, Hop Hideout, Cider Hole, Shakespeares and St Mars of the Desert. There will also be sours to try at a number of other venues such as Bar Stewards, Bear, Jabbarwocky, Industry Tap and Kelham Island Tavern.

The Sheaf View has now reopened following the arson attack, the first day back trading after restoration work was the opening day of Steel City On Tour with the bar sporting an impressive range of beers and Sunshine Pizzas outside serving food.

The Clubhouse on London Road continue to offer discounted prices on cask beer on Mondays.

Chesterfield Alehouse micropub celebrated their 8th birthday over the weekend of 21-24 October with eight of their lines taken over with sours!

The Horse & Jockey on Wadsley Lane near Hillsborough reopens as a True North Brewery pub from November with reservations for dining available from 15 November (it’ll be walk ins only for food until then). The menu features pies, burgers, pizzas, grills, hanging skewers and small plates. They will also do a Sunday roast. On the bar like True North’s other venues expect a mixture of their beers and guests along with cocktails, wines and spirits. The pub also has a function room upstairs and outside area.

Meanwhile across many of the True North venues during December they are hosting Christmas with Santa breakfast events in the morning, Enjoy a full English and the kids get a gift from the man himself! This needs to be booked in advance.

Stew & Oyster at Kelham Island closed on 17 October for a reburbishment.