Dave has been a CAMRA member since the 1970s and has worked at almost 40 Sheffield CAMRA festivals, plus a fair number of others. He is Brewery Liaison Officer (BLO) for Abbeydale, Blue Bee, Bradfield and Loxley. He was also the Chair of the Local Organising Committee for the 2023 national CAMRA Members’ Weekend, AGM & Conference.
A member of the National Pub Heritage Group, he leads on planning and pub heritage issues. He also edited the Sheffield's Real Heritage Pubs book, for which downloads vastly exceeded expectations. The hard copy was available in October 2018 and again in 2021. On both occasions, it was a sell-out. The 5th edition (2023) is available as both a hard copy and a free download.
Last October, the Sheffield Wheat Experiment invited two hundred locals to plant wheat in their allotments, gardens, pots, public spaces or schools. Earlier this summer, the wheat was harvested, allowed to dry and then at a communal event held at Bloc Studios in late August, threshed. 130 kg of grain resulted: 2 kg went to local brewery, Grizzly Grains.
Grizzy Grains Brewery – Dave Pickersgill
This brewery commenced in 2020, brewing at the owner’s home in Walkley, Sheffield. In March, this year, they moved to a 4.5 Bbl. plant in an industrial unit close to Bramall Lane. Their original brewing kit, now the seventy-two litre mini-kit, was obtained from Crosspool Ale Makers. When Crosspool became a cuckoo, their newer plant was purchased by Grizzly Grains, owner and brewer, Sam Bennett. The brewery name came from his young daughter. Originally, Operations Manager at Heeley City farm, Sam now splits his time between the brewery and the farms honey operation, the unit acting as headquarters for both.
The boil commences – Rachael McNiven
Two days before mashing, the grain was torrified (or as my spell-checker insisted: ‘terrified’). Using the large oven at the nearby Regather Co-operative, the wheat kernels were subjected to high-temperature heat treatment. This breaks down the cellular structure of the grain and pre-gelatinises the starches in the wheat so that they are easily broken down at mash temperatures. In beer, protein aids head retention by bringing foam quality and stability. Torrified wheat contains a higher percentage of protein than malted barley. Ideally, for good foam retention, 5/10% of the mash should be wheat.
On the 9 September, the mash for the Sheffield Wheat Experiment beer used spelt, crystal malt, rice husks and malted barley with the Sheffield-grown wheat forming the final 10%. Hops were a mix of East Kent and Northdown. The result was seventy-two litres : 210, 330 ml bottles of a Belgian style amber.
As for the rest of the grain: 1 kg will be seed for sewing in the Autumn and the remainder will become flour. For information about the Sheffield Wheat Experiment: thesheffieldwheatexperiment.co.uk
This copiously illustrated and extensively researched 288-page book provides a reflection as to how British Beer has evolved over the last fifty years, and why this matters. It does not claim to be a beer guide or a history book. However, it provides a perfect picture of Modern British Beer (MBB).
A short prologue is followed by two introductory chapters: ‘The Broad Spectrum of Joy‘ and ‘Defining Modern British Beer.‘ The former provides the historical backdrop and paints a beguiling picture of the spectrum of currently available MBB – styles, flavours and experiences: from the perfect cask bitter to the wild-fermented, barrel-aged Saison. There are also references to many key players including Brendan Dobbin, (Yakima Grande Pale Ale, West Coast Brewery in Manchester) and Sean Franklin (the founder of Harrogate-based Rooster’s). As Matthew states: ‘the primary function of modern beer is to spark joy.’
The next chapter asserts that MBB is:
focused on ingredients, their agriculture and provenance
invested in sustainability, and the preservation of the environment
focused on regionality and is driven by, and supportive of, its local communities
inclusive and equitability-minded
delicious
He continues to state that ‘Racism, sexism, transphobia, homophobia and all other forms of marginalising language and actions belong in the dustbin of beer’s past, not its present, and certainly not its future.’
These are all sentiments with which I am sure we all fully agree.
Matthew also comments that, ‘in terms of modern British beer, no brewery has had more significant an impact on brewing in the United Kingdom over the past twenty years than BrewDog. Love them or hate them, this is a hill I have chosen to die on.’ BrewDog would not be my hill: many will recall their behaviour prior to the 2011 CAMRA GBBF, will note recent social media comment and also remember that in 2017, a quarter of their shares were sold to two companies based in the Cayman Islands. Personally, I would have taken Thornbridge, with their iconic and ground-breaking Jaipur, ‘the most influential of them all,’ as my talisman.
The introductory sections are followed by a series of short stories each focussed on a single beer from an independently owned, and run, brewery. The beers are chosen as a representative sample. As Matthew says, ‘whittling down the selection was the most challenging part of putting this book together.’ I have no doubt that every reader will suggest breweries which ‘should’ have been considered: my selections would include Arbor, Neepsend and Vocation. Perhaps, a supplementary book could be forthcoming?
The eighty six beers are split into seven regions, geographically, north to south. Hence, ‘Scotland,’ with eleven entries opens with ‘London and the South‘ (15), as the closing section. The brewery order is deliberately not alphabetical.
Each listing includes brewery location, alcohol by volume (abv) and style. The latter is based on styles as defined by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP). As this book is published by CAMRA, it seems odd that the recently rewritten CAMRA beer styles are not mentioned.
Beer descriptions are evocative: ‘…. seduces with aromas of stewed plums and rhubarb crumble, drawing you in for that first, decadent sip’ (Titanic Plum Porter) and are mostly about right. Traquair House Ale, however, is included in a collective description of several beers as ‘brown and taste predominantly of malted barley, and not much else.‘ This is simply not true. First brewed in 1965, this 7.2% beer is a traditional Scotch ale (‘Wee Heavy).’ Agreed, there is fruity malt on the nose, but there is so much more. As Michael Jackson put it in his seminal, New World Guide to Beer, ‘A vintage port among beers.’
The beers included cover the full spectrum of MBB. Some are obvious choices while many are from relatively small local breweries, for example: Torrside’s Monsters, one of the last cask beers I drank before the first lockdown.
Many inspirational stories are included. For example, the uplifting tale of how Abbeydale, known for their hop-forward and funky sours, deliberately created a magnificent example of a ‘brown bitter,’ using John Smiths Bitter as their inspiration.
As ever, with a fact-filled tome, there are a small number of errors and areas which could do with more information: Attercliffe is east Sheffield, not north, Saltaire Brewery is in Shipley, not Saltaire, ‘23 years‘ is described as ‘three decades‘ and SI units are incorrectly written (please use 750 mL, not 750ml). It is stated that ‘BrewDog ceased production of cask ale in July 2011.’ Their 2019 restart is not mentioned.
Bruce Bentley, who, in July 1981, in partnership with Dave Wickett, purchased the Fat Cat for £33,750, also deserves a name-check. There are some typos: for example, Jakehead IPA (Wylam) is said to originate in 2021.
I also have the occasional disagreement: in the overview, mention is made of Matthew’s father, Frank, and the Tetley’s Bitter he served in the Beehive in the mid-1970s. Agreed, this was an excellent pint. However, I preferred Tetley’s from the nearby Red Deer: the only pub in the Sheffield One postal area which has continuously used a handpump since that time.
As Matthew states, ‘British beer has changed forever,’ ‘it’s about building friendships with like-minded folks from around the entire industry …. It’s this open attitude towards sharing ideas and forming bonds that has put British beer where it is today.’ These are sentiments with which I can only concur. This is a book well worth reading: it’s interesting, accessible, and enjoyable. You will not agree with every point, but you will appreciate the overall approach. Personally, I would enjoy meeting the author, over a few pints. Next time he’s in Sheffield, I hope he lets me know. As the book states, ‘Steel City as one of the most tremendous places for beer in the UK.’ This is yet another statement with which I cannot disagree.
Modern British Beer by Matthew Curtis / CAMRA Books (first published: 2021) / £15.99
The first face-to-face CAMRA Sheffield & District meeting since spring 2020 recently occurred.
A week before their formal opening, newly re-located Heist Brew Co. (107 Neepsend Lane, S3 8AT) allowed us a preview of their new brewery and tap room.
This development incorporates their state-of-the-art brewery, in addition to a very large tap room, complete with benches, shuffle board and a skateboard. Beer-wise, plenty of KeyKeg, including a couple of 11% imperial stouts and various sours and IPAs.
Our next branch meeting on 7 September is, by contrast, at a very traditional pub, the Chantry at Handsworth (S13 9BZ), one of only four pubs in the UK that are claimants as built on consecrated land. There is also a cemetery on the grounds of the pub.
The fourth edition of the Sheffield’s Real Heritage Pubs is scheduled to go to print in mid-September (1000 copies, A5, 116 pages). For details of pre-orders and retail possibilities, please contact pubheritage@sheffield.camra.org.uk. The second edition was available as both a printed version and a free download. The third edition is currently available as a free download at sheffield.camra.org.uk/rhp. Full details of local availability will be available in the next edition of Beer Matters.
Sheffield’s Real Heritage Pubs 2021 Fourth Edition
For almost half a century, CAMRA has worked to identify, support and protect the UK’s most historic pubs through its national inventory: pubs that are wholly or mostly unchanged or retain important historic rooms or features from over fifty years ago.
Since then, hundreds of pubs have been restored or created in buildings previously used for something else. There have also been new-build pubs that are worthy of admiration and recognition. The Outstanding Conversions and Restorations (OCR) Project identifies and promotes such interiors of outstanding architectural and/or design quality, pubs which are great places to enjoy a drink in splendid surroundings.
The website ocrpubs.camra.org.uk highlights almost two hundred pubs from across the UK that are magnificent conversions or glorious restorations. There are also stunning new builds and a handful of pubs in museums.
As Project Manager, Gerry Hahlo, puts it; ‘all these pubs are the work of dedicated individuals, and pub companies who know the value of excellent design and have created great spaces in which people want to drink and socialise. Some show off their architectural merit by sympathetically converting historic buildings such as banks and cinemas while others recreate painstaking replicas of the glories of yesteryear.’
One example is a former Tetley house, the ex-Firwood Cottage (Sheffield S6 2WA): the Blind Monkey opened in Spring 2018 after a period of closure and deterioration. Dating back to 1846, the building was originally a small village shop that sold bottled beer. It later became a pub. Over the years, it was opened out from smaller rooms into an open-plan design. Taken on by Speakeasy Company, the owners of the nearby Don Valley Brewery, the derelict shell was gutted, and the interior was taken back to the multi-roomed 1890s: most materials used are reclaimed items dating back to the Edwardian and Victorian periods.
Gordon Jones, Director, describes the project as, ‘a labour of love. We wanted to showcase both our architectural and design skills. We rebuilt; we divided the once-open snug area by glass partitions to display whiskies. The fireplace and chimney were opened-up and a reclaimed parquet flooring was renovated and laid down in the main areas of the pub, complemented by original tiling near the bar areas. We also used reclaimed light fittings sourced from as far as Mumbai to as near as Manchester.’
The Blind Monkey is an outstanding restoration. Our image, the Old Bank of England (EC4A 2LT) is an outstanding conservation (Thanks to Mick Slaughter for the photograph). There will be many more: hence, we welcome your suggestions: please contact info@ocrpubs.camra.org.uk saying why the pub should be included. But also, please, enjoy these wonderful pubs!
The Crow Inn (33 Scotland Street, S3 7BS) has been voted as Sheffield and District CAMRA Pub of the Month for July 2021: our first Pub of the Month for a considerable period.
Originally opened in 1797 by Sheffield brewer, Thomas Rawson, the C20th saw many changes. These resulted in closure in 2010: the building becoming The Sleep Hotel. Previous pub names included: The Crown Inn, The Old Crown Inn and R & B’s Uptown Bar.
Two years ago, on Thursday 6 June 2019, under the same management as the Rutland Arms, the Crow was reborn. The logo cleverly links the new to the old: a crow is pictured holding an ‘N’ in its mouth having stolen it from the Crown.
The beer range complements that of the Rutland: five handpumps (gluten-free, Abbeydale Heather (4.3%) is the only permanent resident) and fourteen keg lines, together with a large choice of spirits, including forty malt whiskies. The beer range is innovative, including hard-to-find limited edition beers and obscure imports. In addition, Kev’s Pies are available, and there are seven en-suite hotel rooms. This is all expertly managed by the multi-talented and personable team: Adam Griffiths, Adam Swithenbank, Charlotte Walker, Chris Bamford, Kate Major and Lizzie Dabner.
Apart from the opening-out of the room on the right, the basic layout of the interior is unchanged. The fittings are of varying ages, with some recent renovation and modern art-work. The bar appears early/mid C20th. The porch has internal leaded windows and an impressive ceramic floor which features an image of a crown. Unusually, the off-sales was approached via the entrance to the rear yard, purchasers entering through a small door. This entrance was removed in 1972.
Historically, the pub is mentioned as a key player in the 1840s Chartist protests, the Sheffield Outrages and the 1920s Sheffield Gang Wars. The outrages saw the 1859 murder of James Linley: ‘saw-grinder, was sitting at the Crown Inn, Scotland Street’ (Caledonian Mercury, 3rd August 1859).
Congratulations to all involved with the Crow on this award: recognition of a recent excellent addition to the ground-breaking and innovative pubs of Sheffield. Covid permitting, we originally planned to hold the award ceremony on the evening of Tuesday 13 July. However, due to Covid restrictions, this was changed to Tuesday 10th August 2021.
Without planning permission, the Royal Oak (Mosborough), was recently demolished. The owners, Bar 24 Ltd., have to apply for retrospective planning permission. Their assertion is that toxic waste was dumped in the car park, and the situation became so bad that the only option was to demolish the pub. The building dated from 1843, becoming a beerhouse in 1870.
Clive Betts, the local MP disagrees, ‘the issue of the toxic waste and chemical spills on the site is in my view a red herring. There has been a problem with toxic chemicals but the explanation from the owners that they contacted the Environment Agency about demolition does not in any way obviate the need to apply for planning permission to demolish: the two are separate issues.’
Sheffield and District CAMRA agree with Clive. In October, environmental experts assessed the situation and didn’t find anything to justify demolition. This suggests that the spillage has been used as a pretext for taking short cuts to potentially secure profitable redevelopment of the site. Surely waste could have been removed without having to knock down the pub.
We also believe objections to the anticipated planning application should initially focus on the importance of retaining pub use on the site and the lack of any justification for the demolition. The Carlton Tavern (London) sets a clear precedent.
This Carlton closed in April 2015: then two days before Historic England was due to recommend the pub be granted Grade II listed status, the owners demolished the building, without planning permission. They expected a £5000 fine. However, Westminster Council had a different opinion. They ordered the owners: CTLX, to rebuild the Carlton brick by brick. Earlier this year, having been totally rebuilt, it re-opened.
Sheffield and District CAMRA will comment when the planning application for demolition is submitted to SCC Planning. We encourage you to do the same.
Bradfield Brewery has recently released a limited edition of 500 numbered 750 ml bottles of their new 7.5% Kerry imperial stout. Only available from the brewery shop and with limited social media advertising, within less than a week, this was a sell-out.
Like most Bradfield beers, this stout is named after a breed of cow. ‘Kerry’ is appropriate as the breed hails from Ireland, ’the home of stout,’ and is coloured black with white udders. It also, like a strong stout, enjoys a long life.
Brewed using a variety of speciality malts, this bottle conditioned Imperial Stout is full-bodied, smooth and rich. It has a complex mouth feel with bold roasted coffee and rich chocolate flavours.
Imperial stouts derive from the strong versions of beer and porter brewed in London in the C18th and C19th for export to Russia and the Baltic States. Warming alcohol is often noticeable due to the relatively high alcohol content. The wood aging can also produce caramel and vanilla flavours. The most well-know is probably Courage Imperial Russian Stout which was originally brewed by Courage, Barclay and Perkins for Catherine the Great of Russia.
Each bottle was carefully hand-filled, labelled, numbered and waxed by the three brewers: Kieran Chadwick, Sam Jubb and Bruce Woodcock. Six and 12 month bourbon and whisky barrel aged editions will follow this initial batch. Credit is also due to local designer, Anthony Corrigan whose drawing takes centre stage on every bottle.
What commenced as a lockdown project has materialised into an exciting new brew. We look forward to the next release.
CAMRA smashed a world record on Sunday 18 April during its 2021 Members’ Weekend, when more than 350 participants, using 266 Zoom accounts took part in a simultaneous beer tasting. The event, which focussed on beer from the Sheffield and District branch area, beats the record, as noted by the Guinness Book of Records of 18 venues achieved by the Brewhouse & Kitchen pubco in 2018.
In a normal year, attendees at the annual CAMRA AGM, Conference and Members’ Weekend (MW21) would visit local breweries and pubs. But the pandemic made 2021 different as it was impossible to keep to the original plan of a two-day event at the art-deco Sheffield City Hall.
As a result, both the AGM and Conference took place online along with a live tutored beer tasting.
Initially, there was the unenviable problem of finding a representative selection of six beers from the hundreds available. Within Sheffield, there are 26 brewing companies (23 breweries, three cuckoos), more per head of population than any other UK city. Also, within the branch area, in the Peak District National Park, are Eyam and Intrepid.
At a time when some breweries were mothballed, the occasion demanded award winners, geographical spread, mix of new and well-established breweries, diverse range of beer styles/strengths and commitment to supply 500 to a tight deadline.
Advertised in WB and online, the event was a sell-out. The CAMRA warehouse despatched, 10 days prior to the event protected by biodegradable maize starch peanuts, in tasting order:
Neepsend: Acadia, 3.9 per cent New England session pale 440 ml can
Kelham Island: Pale Rider, 5.2 per cent premium golden ale 440 ml can
Triple Point: Dyad #4, 5.2 per cent DDH New England IPA 440 ml can
Intrepid: Stanage, 4.5 per cent oatmeal stout 500 ml bottle
Bradfield: Belgian Blue, 4.9 per cent speciality ale – flavoured 500 ml bottle
Abbeydale: Black Mass, 6.66 per cent strong stout 440 ml can
European Beer Consumers Union beer judge and former Great British Beer Festival organiser, Christine Cryne introduced the event commenting on beer styles. MW21 co-organiser, Dave Pickersgill, then said a few words about Sheffield, reminding participants they had missed a visit to possibly the best beer city in the world. He noted Sheffield has more pubs on the CAMRA Pub Heritage lists than any other city in Yorkshire and hosts the only local to win the CAMRA National Pub of The Year title in successive years – the Kelham Island Tavern.
Christine then hosted the tasting. Five brewers – Ben Millner (Intrepid), Bruce Woodcock (Bradfield), Gavin Martin (Neepsend), George Brook (Triple Point) and Jim Rangeley (Abbeydale) – participated, commenting on their beer and responding to participants.
Companies House states the occupation of Ben as “brewer and speleological Interpreter”. He is the only UK brewer with this job title. This unique split of his working life obviously works, one participant describing the Intrepid beer as “one of the best stouts I’ve tasted from a bottle…. can’t believe the amount of body at such a low ABV.”
Throughout the event, the chat function was kept busy. Among many items discussed was the origin of Neepsend beer names, the Beaujolais Noveau aspect of Belgian Blue and the feasibility of the 2021 Abbeydale Funk Festival. It also confirmed Black Mass, the only beer in the Good Beer Guide whose ABV is quoted to two decimal places, is legally between 6.16 and 7.16 per cent. In addition, the true meaning of Dyad was discussed.
There was also complimentary comment about the brewers’ input: “Absolutely super event, wonderfully produced, great host and contributors and the sense of the CAMRA community, and great beer!” The brewers also had a good evening, as Gavin stated, via Twitter: “Was really good fun and hopefully we’ll be able to meet some of you in the flesh in Sheffield one day.”
The session was enjoyable, went extremely well and is obviously something which should happen again. However, can anyone beat 266 simultaneous Zoom accounts, or will Sheffield continue to retain its reputation as the best beer city in the world?
After well over a year with minimal trade, for some pubs, this Summer could be their last hurrah. Many of us have built up savings and will be happy to go out and spend. For those pubs who can open, this could be a profitable few months. However, this short-term fillip may not last.
Over the last eighteen months, pubs have suffered – badly. During the last lockdown, our government banned pubs from selling beer in sealed containers while supermarkets and off-licences could sell alcohol to take away. This was grossly unfair, assisting the multinational brewers while simultaneously causing huge damage to our pubs. Takeaway sales, in sealed containers, were a lifeline for pubs during previous lockdowns, offering an opportunity to keep the doors open, continue to employ staff and welcome customers safely. Restricting that route to market could be the death knell for many pubs. As Louise Singleton, landlady of double CAMRA National Pub of the Year winning Kelham Island Tavern said, at the time: “Off-sales was a way of topping up in order for us to survive. In addition, pubs selling off-sales are more likely to support small and local suppliers.”
Pubs and breweries also have a major staffing problem as many experienced staff have moved to other things. This, coupled with the reluctance of some pub companies to employ sufficient staff is caused some long waits at outside table service. As Sheffield and District CAMRA chair Glyn Mansell said, after a visit to the Francis Newton: “On arrival we were seated and told we could order, but there was a 45-minute wait for drinks and an hour for food. We made double drinks orders. Finally, the food arrived, 15 minutes before the drinks. However, the next day, else where outside service was prompt and efficient.”
Over the last year, many brewers have attempted to diversify. Some will not return while others are hoping it won’t be too long before things return to some form of normality. However, rising costs, coupled with the effect of the pandemic will cause some breweries to fold. There are almost 2,000 listed in the 2021 CAMRA Good Beer Guide. There will be less in the 2023 edition.
In addition, changes in cross-border regulations have resulted in European online bottle suppliers raising shipping costs or simply ceasing UK delivery. The price of niche imported beers has risen and choice is suffering. European barley and hops are also becoming both more expensive and more difficult to source. There will be tighter margins throughout small innovative breweries and in the craft beer market.
Pubs, bars and breweries deserve a long-term, dedicated and sector-specific financial support package to make sure they do not have to close for good. They have fixed costs and have suffered many months of little income. The grants announced by the chancellor have been welcome, but they will not be enough to help all our pubs to survive.
As for the future, my guess is that, assuming there is no fourth wave, the number of breweries in the UK will fall by between 10 and 20 per cent. As for pubs, for some, Summer 2021 will be their last hurrah, before inevitable closure. The multinational property companies will buy some while others will never reopen. The overall number will fall.
